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Page 2 of Blog Archives
I was absent for awhile, hence no posts. Those few days saw me travelling and trying out several different perfumes along the way.
Since air travel has changed so dramatically for US and UK citizens these past few days (aided by a little manipulated hysteria creeping up via forces who shall not be named) it was refreshing to see that travel within Continental Europe is still the laid back, easy, glamorous affair it had always been in my experience.
In light of that, I made use of my god-given, airport-security non-taken ability to sniff to my heart's content and intent on reporting back with lots of exciting news, starting tomorrow.
Pic of Audrey Hepburn from the film Sabrina
glad you are back and ‘rested’
It would be my pleasure to share the perfumers article with other perfume lovers.
wearing Cipresso by Acqua di Parma
and not feeling masculine just envigoratingly female,
sillage
sillage - 22 08 06
One of the perks of air travel has always been perusing the duty-free aisles.
The invention of duty-free goes back a long way, to 1947 actually. Shops thrived on the policy, which is now attacked by the recent terror-hysteria that has hit the US and UK like a ton of bricks. Duty free shops report loss of sales over the new restrictions applicable to passengers to the aforementioned countries. A sad development really.
The authenticity of the sources responsible for the hysteria epidemic might not be so easily or conclusively traceable; however, since Perfume Shrine is not a political venue, we might as well concentrate on perfume only.
My recent trip to Germany and Austria was relaxed and no such restrictions applied, although I was wary of carrying too much perfume with me. Just to be on the safe side, especially in light of the infuriating rumours that confiscated perfume is then re-sold by airport/customs employees (which would be soooo humiliating to airports if true), I opted for small atomizers of things I could easily get again or had lots of back home. Just as a precaution, you comprehend.
Nevertheless, I wonder if security officials have thought about potential corrupt sales assistants at duty free shops; what if they are in alliance with terrorists to fill a bottle with something suspicious and then wrap it up again like a valid cellophane-ed gift? I guess that idea slipped their minds? You see what I’m getting at, surely…..
Anyway, on my flight there were lots of Arabs, men and women alike, and I felt completely safe. They were regular people, just as irritated as I was of terrorist threats. As to the personnel, no one even remotely hinted at restricted materials apart from the usual ones (which are posted on placards at check-in point as usual) and security was standard.
The waiting hour before my flight we spent in the Frankfurt airport duty free. It is nowhere as big as the Heathrow or Amsterdam one, but it does present its gems.
I was happy to witness a phenomenon I was not aware of previously: they do indulge in the new niches, some of which are not your average customer choices. I noticed aisles featuring Etro, Creed and the whole Serge Lutens export line side by side with the more standard Guerlain and Esteé Lauder offerings. Isn’t it great to be able to sniff those covetable things in the glamorous guise of an air-traveler, tote in hand, silk scarf on one’s hair, sunglasses perched up on head? I was chaneling my inner Grace Kelly- meets-Eleni Glykatzi-Arveler.
The sales assistant was polite and pleasant to look at (for a change) and as soon as she understood I am a bit more than mildly interested in perfume she gently nudged me onto Serge Lutens. Row upon row the lovely oblong bottles of the export line were perched onto glass shelves, with little cards bearing individual names and notes. The presentation was lovely. Set aside a little were the more recent ones (OK, in duty-free shop terms, that last bit): Daim Blond, Miel de bois, Cedre and Gris Clair. Happily I wouldn’t be lured in by any of those since I have sampled them before and I can get them easily at home, no sweat. However the sight of them in the duty-free warmed my heart despite myself. I quenched an inner smile at the surprise some of them will surely elicit from casual unsuspecting customers…..
Etro was standing on a mid-height shelf, flanked by Gucci and Laura Biagotti. I am not sure what that might hint at semantically, but I choose to believe it might be something good. They even had a little booklet in plasticized cardboard with info on notes and possible combinations, one of which was Gomma and Ambra. Messe de Minuit had its won fair share of layering suggestions and I think that would be terribly interesting. The layering thing is not unheard of in the Etro brand, it seems….
The bottles and the presentation were so cool and elegant, I would be tempted to buy something if only I did not have the option to buy it at home as well just as easily.
It’s important to note that I did not notice any particular bargain price about those lines in general, which is telling.
I did not see the new Etro fragrance either, of which I did notice an announcing display in an Apotheke in Salzburg on my trip, more of which on a following post because it deserves a separate entry.
Creed was next on my greedy perfume-radar and I would expect a whole shelf apart devoted to the luxe, heavy 100ml bottles, but no. They went low-key and shelved them the same as everyone else. Under Calvin Klein even! (I know it’s an alphabetical thing, I just found it amusing for snob-driven Creed believers, personally I have nothing against Calvin Klein) The bottles did present a challenge as there were so many of them, sadly none of the exclusive line of gigantic proportions that we perfume lovers all covet. I would have gone out of my way for a bottle of Angelique Encens and break down on the spot and buy one, jeopardizing my credit card in the process with the exorbitant charge to follow. Lucky for me then there were none.( Hurray for decants!)
I spritzed on some Silver Mountain Water to remind myself of its fresh aspect that combines earthy dust and aqueous freshness. Really pleasant, really easy. Created in 1995 -fairly recently for Creed no doubt, since they claim royal patronage since 1760- it is one of their successes. Originally launched as a masculine, it has a quality that manages to smell effortlessly unisex. The opening of dark gooseberry is never too sweet, it is in fact a slightly bitter perfume to its credit, seguing to notes of green tea, which I understand was considered very "push-the-envelope" in 1995 (well, not any more, with the plethora of tea scents on the market). The overall impression is of a dune by the coast at evening and not of mountains, like Olivier Creed presumambly got inspired by, but maybe that is just my impression. Whatever it is, Silver Mountain Water is very fitting for cooling down in the warm days of summer and elegantly at that.
Out of the ones there were there and were new to me I was pleasantly surprised by Bois du Portugal, which I had never tested before and wanted to for a long time.
Technically a men’s scent, it manages to smell enticing on a woman too. Not to mention that my SO commented on how nice it smelled on my skin and on the blotter! Don't we love those moments.
Created in 1806 for Napoleon I it has the air of a winner, of an enlightened monarch, whatever happened to Napoleon later on. Creed likes to connect it with Immanuel Kant's Sapere Aude! cry, which means of course "Use your own reason" , a notion not far off the one exposed in the beginning of this article...
An affair of wood and of discreet citrusy spice on the opening, Bois du Portugal squashes lavender in there in a way that never lets it be shrill or medicinal, rather lullabies any harshness into the warm embrace of cedar and sandal. The spicy note is supposed to be coriander, yet it is not as prominent as in Declaration by Cartier for example. Married with the citrusy touch of classic bergamot and juicy mandarin it smells succulent. Soon to be veiled in a light smokey cloud that recalls burning incense mixed with wood in a luxurious house. The whole is rounded with the grassy feel of vetiver that accounts for an elegance worthy of a 50’s era crooner. Fitting if you consider the fact that it was Sinatra's choice.
It made an impression I am very willing to further explore.
To be continued.....
Pic comes from Gridskipper.
That ‘Silver Mountain Water’ fragrance sounds divine! As for Serge, ah dear Serge…I still dream of acquiring Un Lys.
Snarkattack - 06 10 06
I think it’s an easy to like scent for those who do not want to smell sweet in hot weather. One of their likeable ones.
You know, G, I could arrange something for Un Lys if you haven’t found any till now, if you want to order.
perfumshrine - 06 10 06
Continuing on my recounting of my duty-free adventures I have to say that the mainstream side of things is in good health and offers an abundance of new releases which seems overwhelming at times. It's hard to keep up! Therefore I will need a couple of posts to report all the things I found, so bear with me.
Among row after row of designer and cosmetic houses' fragrances one finds new releases, variations on existing perfumes and that elusive, tantalising thing called a "limited edition", the downfall of many an otherwise intelligent perfumeholic. I pleady guilty, my Honour.
Regarding the former category, I noticed no less than 4 products under the name Miracle on the Lancôme shelf. Miracle original in EDP ( a spicy floral of suprising pleasantness, much like Pleasures original is a little gem in itself), Miracle so Magic ( a pleasant floral of wild rose and what seems like lilac, but actually isn't, tenacious enough and nice), Miracle Sheer ( a summer version of Miracle that to me seems purposeless, unless one is stranded in the Sahara without water) and Miracle Forever ( this is a new limited edition that will become available from September 1st for 46 euros for 50ml EDP- they did not have a full tester, alas! just the demo card)
There is also the new Rose d'amour variation on the Trésor theme, which I was thinking was beating a dead-horse ( I was oversaturated with Trésor in the 90's to the point I cannot take much more) , however the new EDT and this one are much lighter, not cloying, less peachy surprisingly and more centered on a transparent rose accord. Much better, me thinks.
The exciting news seemed to be the new limited edition of Tropiques which would make an appearence only in duty-free shops. Tropiques is the first in a new collection called "Collection Voyage" (Travel Collection) designed by Lancôme.
Tropiques 2006 in Eau de toilette is based on the original Tropiques created by Armand Petitjean, the founder of the brand, in 1935. The original fragrance was part of a collection of five which were presented at the Brussels Exhibition that year as a lucky charm for the new Lancôme brand. Their respective names were: Tendre Nuit, Bocages, Conquete, Kypre and Tropiques. It's interesting to note that Bocage is the name still attached to the brand's deodorants...
The 2006 version is not a re-edition, according to the sales pitch, but rather a re-interpretation of the classic scent, a fact that is usually to the detriment of many classic perfume lovers. 
Tropiques is a fruity-floral perfume encased in a glass bottle shaped austerely, yet friendly. Transparent heavy glass painted with a swoosh of green and red and deep yellow paintbrushes, it makes one instantly take a fancy and want to test it. It beckons to be handed without ever looking pretentious. The box is equally lovely. Simple, happy, modern.
The juice however, to me at least, is not the most exciting thing to come out in recent launches. The initial impression is of a tart grapefruit and mango scent that recalls to mind Jardin sur le Nil, a Jean Claude Ellena creation which I fell for during this past summer, at last (why didn't I fall sooner?). Pretty soon it flies soaring into different skies, though, opening wings of succulent red fruits and introducing a light and airy floral note that must be the jasmine, only it must be hedione and not the heady enfleurage-rendered variety of other heavier floral perfumes. The drydown phase has a slight caramel tinge, like fruit toffee, vanillic, but not enough to make it stay the course and it being an eau de toilette, rather than an eau de parfum does not help much.
Something tells me that the original creation did not have such staying problems and I am a little irritated when asked to fork out good money over fleeting perfume. But maybe there are concerns that heavier blends really offend at the workplace or something, although I can see this more fitted in an exotic locale with straw hat and sunglasses than in the workplace. Which could be a good thing, if you have a void in that section of your perfume wardrobe, but maybe not otherwise.
Top notes: cranberry, raspberry, and kumquat.
Heart notes: mango, jasmine, blackberry.
Base notes: Tonka bean and vanilla.
It retails for 39euros for 50ml EDT and 74 euros for 100ml EDT.
Vintage pic comes from Parfum de Pub, product pic from Advertising campaign of Lancome.
Those words “limited edition” have been the downfall of many a collector – of all sorts of things, I fear. Would you not agree?
Snarkattack - 06 10 06
I certainly echo your feelings. That is the reason they do them in the first place, I am afraid.
perfumeshrine - 06 10 06
In my foray into the futy-free new launches beckoned me. I usually am pretty weak and have to try, even if I am certain that I will not like the goods. I guess we always hope that we will be pleasantly surprised.
In this case I have had not one, but several pleasant suprises (and one miss) from things that would usually take a bashing, simply because they are flankers of established perfumes.
I am referring to Estee Lauders Pure White Linen, Guerlain Insolence, Bulgari femme Voile de jasmin and Ralph Lauren's Pure Turquoise.
Pure White Linen was something I was very reluctant about, because I do not have good associations with the original White Linen. This classic aldehydic was hailed as a breath of fresh air and was completely matching its simple, but to the point name. Introduced in 1978, it has been mentioned by many experts as a master-creation to come from the Lauder stable. And I can see why. However on my skin it always remained harsh and somehow not mingling quite right. Others imagined their mothers watering the orchids in the garden when they smelled it, alas I did not. A flanker that had been issued in the 90's, named White Linen Breeze wasn't particularly spectacular to make me change my mind either.
Pure White Linen, although being almost a misnomer, because what is "pure" anyway and how much purer can white (a non-colour) go, is a nice scent to have around. Advertised as “the fragrance to live in all year long” it features a very photoshopped Gwyneth Paltrow as its face, striking a weird pose which does not help in attracting customers in my opinion. However the velvety floral that lurks inside the frosty bottle is something else. The aldehydic shimmer of the start is more subdued than that of the original, going through a light fruity phase of pear that then becomes more floral with whispers of jasmine and honeysuckle and ends in velvety woods at drydown. The whole is like a weightless dove, a small swallow with white belly, featherlight, but tenacious enough to last on clothes through the day and into the next.
Besides, I quite like the idea of creating a modern aldehydic, especially one that is not predominantly soapy, like Sicily by Dolce & Gabbana was.
Arguably, it does not smell like something Tom Ford would have his hand on (he was involved in producing such sexy things as Nu EDP by Yves Saint laurent, Rush for Gucci, Gucci I Eau de parfum in the heavy crystal square bottle) and I might also be a little prejudiced against mr.Ford (regarding his designer abilities), but no one can blame him for not knowing what will please the public. Personally I am all hot and bothered about his upcoming Black Orchid.
Notes for Pure White Linen include grapefruit, mandarin, iced rose tea, raspberry, pear, Granny Smith apple, dewy greens, lily, white freesia, white ginger, cardamom, red tulips, rose absolute, honeysuckle, gardenia, tuberose, jasmine, iris, osmanthus, white cedarwood, patchouli and white heliotropine. (wow, everything and the kitchen sink!)
Ralph Lauren's Pure Turquoise is also centered on the pure aspect and it makes me double-take (what's up with that?). Supposedly exclusive to the boutiques and hard to get by, it is readily available in the duty-free it seems, although not in the parfum concentration with the exquisite turqoise-stone top.
The scent is another one of the "modern chypre" category I have talked about in the past. This is not to mean that it has the classic bergamot-oakmoss combination, rather that it opens up on some citrusy smell that is then anchored with the grassy feel of patchouli/vetiver. In that light Michael Edwards has classified certain modern perfumes in his Mossy woods category, which is encomprassing the classic chypres. In that system Miss Dior Cherie is such a perfume (no, Edwards hasn't devised the sweet pop-corn-woods just yet!! alas...). Narciso for Her is another one to be included in this category and I am striken dumb by the similarities I discern. Although they do not smell identical, they do both start with a subtle citrusy piquant top-note, provided by synthetic orange blossom from all things, flankered by floral notes and end up on a musky/patchouli/woody base. The overall effect is curiously shower-clean and sexy all at once. (quite a feat, don't knock it!)
Developped by nose Annie Byzantian, whose other oeuvres include Diane von Furstenberg D, Tommy Hilfiger T for her and T for Him, Adrienne Vittadini and Victoria's Secret Breathless and Secret Pink, it is a pleasant surprise.
Ayala Moriel of the eponymous natural fragrances has been a fan, they tell me, and I can see why.
It even got a Fifi award for Nouveau Niche (what a pretentious term!), if that means something to you. Although the reviews it got are mixed, I suggest at least sampling it, as it is more worthwhile than it would seem. (and I have never been a fan of the perfumes issued by Ralph Lauren). Maybe not as tenacious or sillage-worthy as the Pure White Linen mentioned above and significantly costlier, so take that into consideration.
Notes: Dewy Cassis, Indigo Violet Petals, Lily Of The Valley, Cactus Flower, Night Blooming Cereus, Orange Flower Absolute, Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Desert Lily, Patchouli, Sliver Birch Wood, Polished Amber, Vanilla Bourbon, Rum
Bulgari femme Voile de Jasmin was a little disppointing to me, personally. The bottle and presentation are so classy around this greco-roman brand, that one has the highest expectations. Their perfume line does not disappoint in general. They have a crisp air of impeccable good taste and old money, of patrician air to them, even if they are composed in a way that does not ephatically denote that. Jean Claude Ellena has been responsible for much of that reputation and the others followed suite, from the lovely, misty Pour Femme, to the gently spicy of Omnia to the wonderful powdery crisp of Blv Notte.
Voile de jasmin is supposed to be a variation on the classic feminine scent of the house, yet the jasmine in this is not clear enough and it detonates into little explosions on my skin that have the alkaline smell of soap. Jasmine can smell soapy in a perfume, that's true, especially in aldehydic ones, however, I was not prepared for this. I also found it a bit lacking in staying power. Maybe I should try it again at some point.
Insolence by Guerlain was last but not least. Although Guerlain perfumes in recent years take the bashing of the century, there are fools there; they know what will sell and they do not produce bad perfume either, even if it is not up on a par with their classic era ones. But times have moved on, FDA and European terms of ingredients being what they are and life and the media getting cheapened in general, what's one to expect?
With what they have in hand, Guerlain have managed to create something that respects part of their illustrous heritage and move on with the times.
The advertising featuring Hillary Swank has been the cornerstone of fora fracas over this, and it does present a certain challenge to someone unaccustomed to such imagery from Guerlain (although the first glimpse was visible at the hint of implied sex in the L'instant ad) especially if one sees the Vogue segment with a shaded, yet naked Swank dancing.
However, what is advertising to a perfume lover? Icing on the cake. The cake can be eaten and enjoyed without, if it is well-made. The juice is what counts and this one is not half as bad as feared. Even if it is not 100% classic Guerlain in character, it does have merit.
The revolution in its composition is this one is supposedly like a spiral; according to their press release "rather than a slow progression from head to base, the notes spiral and continue to circulate so that your favourite notes remain prominent from flight to finish." In my old days I could swear that we called that linear....but maybe I am wrong, because this one does have an overlapping quality in the note development.
It is quite sweet and the raspberry opening in combination with the caramelised violets make it very sweet indeed, yet although I do not detect any iris per se, I do smell a slightly mentholated phase, just a hint, before the final kiss-off that makes me smile in rememberance of the Lutens treatment we get from him. Oy, Oy, Guerlain have cottoned on to the plot.... I do not detect any particular similarity with Apres l'ondee either, like some have noticed, because although it does smell like Guerlain it is not as melancholy and airy as the afore-mentioned classic. The base is all smooth wood and light vanilla with whiffs of some sweet berry still discernible.
Anyway, my point is many people dissed L'instant when it first came out, commenting on how uncharacteristic of Guerlain it was, then lots of people went and bought it and enjoyed it immensely.
They are no fools at Guerlain, they know what they're doing and I don't think that issuing something not on a par with Mitsouko is a bad thing; not everything has to be on a par with it, anyway.
So..................
I have liked it. Yes, I have. This die-hard lover of Opium and Mitsouko liked Insolence. I was sure I would when I had read someone who has almost the same taste say she found herself addicted to wearing it when she first got it and sure enough I find it a little addictive myself. It does not smell "ho" whatever the image might imply; it smells a little old-fashioned actually in the best possible sense. Quite in contrast to the "modernised" advertising technique used.
It also elicited an immediate response from SO, who is very eclectic in perfume (and really knows nothing about brand cachet, so I trust his judgement because I know it has to do with the smell per se). I am sure it would elicit compliments from others too.
I have not bought a bottle yet, because I was on a trip and I thought it's not necessary since I can wait for the official launch pretty soon. But I think I will get one (for L'instant I got only a mini, it's too sweet in Eau De Parfum for me)
This one will be quite successful, mark my words.
pic is "Good taste for a pigeon" by Isolano/frickr
I found it a propos ;-)
Hi!!!
I was updating my bookmarked list of sites that I had saved and I came across your site. :)
I love Insolence – especially the drydown. Insolence also elicited a compliment from my husband who usually does not notice perfume. He really liked it, so I ended up buying the bottle.
Take care and great site.
Dawn (dawnkana)
Dawn - 01 09 06
Hi dear!
You know the same happened to me too with Insolence 
Thanks for your kind words, it’s a labour of love.
Hey, BTW I liked the figgy soap a lot. Thanks again.
perfumeshrine - 02 09 06
‘L’instant’ has the kind of pungent odour that an orchid gets when it’s about to really start putrifying, after a few days in the vase.
How odd – the Bulgari one is definitely what I’d like to try but the EL one could also suit me, though perhaps not with as many of those fruity notes as you’ve listed. You’re right about the ‘pure white’ thing – in English we would say that the word ‘pure’ in this case is ‘redundant’, or that ‘pure white’ is tautological (unnecessarily repetitive)
Snarkattack - 22 11 06
Dear G, I think you might have misunderstood me. I was talking about Insolence, the newest Guerlain, not L’instant. Insolence smells of candied berry-ish violets and is completely different than L’instant in either concentration.
The Bulgari one did not wow me, although I wanted it to. Their Rose essentielle version on the same scent is much better (and imagine I am not a rose fan).
Thanks for the comment on the Pure White Linene. In fact it is a very likeable scent, especially for wam weather and the fruitiness does not come out in the fore too much. It’s really pretty! Do try it.
perfumeshrine - 22 11 06
My trip to Salzburg was a glimpse on what differentiates a trully touristic, cosmopolitan resort from merely a central town. Besides the abundance of luxury boutiques with the most exquisite items (Tod's bags and shoes in the loveliest suede, covetable Panerai watches of limited editions, gorgeous La Perla undies and le dernier cri in anything having to do with fashion) there were the most wonderful, rare and costly brands in the simplest Apotheke (that's Apothecary or Cosmetic and Perfume department store to you and me). The same Apotheke in provencial Germany or even the duty-free in Frankfurt -which is no small place in itself as you have probably learned if you read my last few entries- had only a fifth of the treasures I found in the one in Salzburg.
The visit was not on purpose. I had overtired my feet and popped in to buy some Band-aids to put on my toes. Little did I know I would be met with a cornucopia of fragrant shelves filled with the whole Etro line, Miller Harris, lots of Creed, Annick Goutal perfumes and skincare (what lovely things she has; the Rose Splendide line is wonderful) , Carthusia, even Amouage with big testers that the customer was free to handle and spray to her heart's content.
Dia was the one I tested from the feminine range of the super expensive Amouage line on me and it was a very feminine perfume that reminded me of the bouquet of Chanel #5 with its mysterious smell and the sandalwood base. Dia lingered lovingly on my clothes all day and all night. If it weren't so frikkingly expensive it would be worth buying.
It was there that I also smelled an Etro I cannot for the life of me identify. Nor can anyone else, apparently. The name was something along the lines of Mille Viole, but don't hold me responsible for any early Altzheimer symptoms ( I never get that when I am not shopping, why is this happening? Maybe I should cut down on the stores and brands I browse...). It was in their regular bottle with the gold cap, a very tasteful presentation. Although I have liked certain Etro fragrances I never forked the money to buy a full bottle, simply because they come in 100ml bottles and that seems too much for me and too costly for something I might tire easily of. This one though proved to be so wonderful that I am kicking myself for not grabbing it then and there. Smelling like smoky violets with a mysterious floral air and some earthy/woody depth, it was unique. I think it could be worn by a man very elegantly as well. And if it proves to be the Via Verri limited edition some have suggested (which boasts a rosy accord), it is almost impossible to get anymore anywhere, even the flagship store in Rome. (Edit to add: Basenotes has helped me finally identify it as Via Verri and it has been reported to be available in Berlin)
Live and learn, I say.....
Next post is about something fragrant I have never seen outside Salzburg. ;-)
Pic of Salzburg via VirtualTourist.
Gasp! Miller Harris! Did you test any of them? They are ever so divine…
Snarkattack (
email) - 10 11 06
Hi there sweetie! Thanks for dropping by.
Yes, I have tested many of them actually, both there and here. They are very nicely done and with good ingredients it seems. I really like Fleur de Matin (in the neighbourhood of Cristalle), Fleur Oriental (a bit like Shalimar), Feuilles de tabac (smoky woody). They all have something nice about them, even if they don’t all last as well.
I am now anxiously awaiting to try L’air de rien, which I have heard described in many amusing terms.
BTW, please send me the new link for your blog, seems I have lost it 
perfumeshrine - 10 11 06
Salzburg in Austria is one of the most lovely towns in central Europe. Honestly. Picturesque, full of tradition, close to the Alps and also by a big lake, full of baroque architecture, it has moderate enough climate to welcome visitors any time. And it shows! Cosmopolitan and full of life, refined. Birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and the set of the film The Sound of Music , it exploits the heritage of its classical composer like nothing else. Coffee shops, chocolates, little magnets, even paper napkins bear his name in a business that is overflowing. Salz means salt in German. So Salzburg is "city of salt". They used to export salt in Salzburg. Now they export Mozart...
It was in this context that I came across the line of Mozart perfumes. They are comprised of three offerings. Mozart Eau de toilette for ladies , Mozart Eau de toilette for men and Amadeus Eau de toilette for ladies. They were available in many shops and it made an impression to me that they were one of the first things when you entered the shop, sometimes even outside on a stall, tester bottles chained on a pole so that they wouldn't be stolen. The imagery was hilarious and common sense rolled into one. I expected to find a cheap scent, seeing it as touristic/novelty item. How wrong it is to presume things.....
Upon testing Mozart pour femme on my skin, I discovered a pleasant floral with an innocence and flair that reminded me of by-gones and perfumes that were popular for young ladies a couple of decades past. It was a very pleasant surprise. Actually it has the same character as Molinard de Molinard, even if it doesn't share the same smell. The hyacinth was the most predominant flower on my skin, imbuing the central classic bouquet of jasmine and rose with a narcotic feel. Green rushes of an unidentified kind were raising their head through all the flowery notes to be bedded down by the smooth plush of oakmoss, rendering this one quite lasting. After 5 hours I could still smell it on me, although I had only sprayed two moderate spritzes. And at no time did it intrude with my other occupations and sightseeing. It remained always the lady. The bottle needs some attending to, if they are ever thinking of going up-market with this one, because it does the juice a diservice.
You can see or order the whole line here
If you are interested to do some reading on the actual person who inspired so much business click this very comprehensive link
painting of Mozart courtesy of Angelfire
helg, lovely blog my dear. I’m enjoying your posts.
Mary
(VelvetSky from POL)
Mary (
email) - 03 09 06
Awwww….coming from a blogger I enjoy myself, I can only say I am deeply touched. Thank you for your kind words, dear Mary.
perfumeshrine - 04 09 06
i love Mozart,and i love fragrances!so many beautiful words here!thank you:)
vivien - 08 09 06
The notion of what is a must-smell and what is not is perhaps a little subjective. After all, what I deem worthy is perhaps not worthy to you. Although it does not have to do with likes/dislikes, rather the breakthrough or -on the other hand- classicism of a given creation, it is still a little difficult to accomplish, because if we try to keep it short, there comes into the play the process of elimination. The task is like eliminating Gaugin over Van Gogh, or Rubens over Rembrant. Although the mastery of the grand masters is not to be compared with an art form that uses questionable techniques and materials lately to accomplish the aim, however there are cases when those afore-mentioned masters experimented with urine to cut paint and with lesser subjects such as cabaret dance, which yet produced amazing results.
Francis Kurkdjian in an article in french in the Glamour France edition goes on to reveal which perfumes he regards as must-smells for anyone interested in perfume.
Mr Kurkdjian as you may already know is the famous, innovative and very talented nose behind Gaultier Le Male, Gaultier², Dior's Eau Noire, Davidoff's Silver Shadow, Armani Mania for Men... and one of the most successful fragrances in its category of last few years: Narciso Rodriguez for her (together with Christine Nagel). He was also single-handedly responsible for one of the most lovely Boutique Exclusives for Guerlain in recent years, Rose Barbare, a scent to receive accolades and which won me by its sheer beauty.
He suggests the follow fragrances as absolute "must-smells" (for women):
1. 1000 by Jean Patou.
2. Must de Cartier.
3. Paloma Picasso.
4. Eau de Rochas for Women.
5. Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermès
6. N°5 in parfum/extract by Chanel.
7. Shalimar by Guerlain.
8. Eternity by Calvin Klein.
9. Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel.
10. Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens.
The list does have its merits in encompassing major tendencies and traditions in perfume making : 2 Chanels, 1 Guerlain, 3 classic prestigious houses, 1 infamous modern niche, 1 from a jewel house, 1 from a famous designer, 1 from a "celebrity" (although referring to her like that might be sacrilege, since Paloma is a quite creative woman, but she bears a historic name all the same).
If we are thinking along perfume families, there are 2 citrus, 3 orientals, 1 chypre, 3 florals (one woody, one classic aldehydic and one spicy) and 1 floriental/fruity/patchouli melange. ( I really don't know how to classify Coco Mademoiselle).
On the whole it is a little unusual. Makes one think...
No Caron in there? No vintage Diors? Two Chanels, yet one of them is the very modern Mademoiselle, which despite her gorgeous physique is a bottle-blonde (or whatever bottle-colour)? Not some of the more avant-garde offerings from -say- Comme des Garcons or Olivia Giacobetti for L'artisan?
And in those Guerlains, Shalimar reigns supreme, the "Casablanca" of perfumery, the classic to top all classics. Which of course is a little confusing, bearing in mind that the formula has changed a bit down the road. Mind you, though, not the innovation of Mitsouko nor Jicky, nor the wistfulness of L'heure bleue.
I think I see mr. Kurkdjian's point, even if I do not agree with all his choices.
So, have you thought about what you deem as absolute must-smells for perfume lovers?
Pic is Around the bend of memory by Isolano/flickr
I miss-like you- one that I absolutely insist on: Chypre by Coty. Vintage of course. How to judge any chypre with having sniffed the original. And then: Jicky. These two are must’s…no way around them.
Andy - 05 09 06
I am so glad to see it struck a chord with you, Andy.
Yes, I think it’s of paramount importance to get to know the precursors of any category/trend before experiencing the offspring, to better judge the technical merit and expansion on the subject those later ones can then bring.
I also detected a lack of a great “leather”, like say Cuir de Russie. Paloma with its rich castoreum is more animalic, so the list is a bit wanting in that respect too.
Difficult task, all the same, and I do wonder what would be your 10 must-sniffs (OK, your 8 , since you already mention 2)
perfumeshrine - 06 09 06
Ooh, I don’t know that my nose is experienced enough to pick 10! I do love to read others’ lists though :D
Snarkattack - 22 11 06
Personal lists have their own merit sometimes. Please share yours if you want to!
perfumeshrine - 22 11 06
The first half of my title today, which alludes to the famous H.G.Wells novel, is perhaps implying polemics of a greater magnitude. Still, it is hardly a small-scale issue.
Over the last decade a shocking realization dawned in the minds of most people. Ours was a polluted world, a world of decay and man-made confusion. A world in which Man had distanced himself from Nature.
The 90’s saw a growing concern about the environment, animal rights, the resources still available and the reversion to a way of life that would be purer and cleaner. Organic food, fair trade and a return to traditional techniques entered our vocabularies and our lives. Perfume was just one part of the equation that would go with the flow.
Or would it?
Perfumes of yore have been changing their formulae over the past 2 decades at least (in many cases many more) substituting ingredients of a dubious origin with newer ones, usually of a synthetic nature.
The use of synthetic molecules is nothing new, of course. Jicky was the precursor of the modern perfume with its use of not one, but three synthetics (linalool, isolated from rosewood for the first time; coumarin isolated from the tonka bean; and vanillin of course) in 1889. Its success brought about the modernization of perfume as an art form and a new era dawned. Chanel #5 was the other great classic to make use of the aldehydic aroma-chemical family. In some cases it was necessity on the creative side that prompted the innovation brought by certain chemical molecules; gardenia or lily of the valley scents have to be created some other way, because the flower does not yield a satisfactory essence for perfumery. Milk is a note recreated in lactone, because it seemed like a nice, ground breaking idea at some point to include such a note in a composition.
Cut into today. The scarcity of certain ingredients, such as natural ambergris for example or the soon to be depleted natural sandalwood from India, as well as the ethical questions raised concerning the use of others still, such as the deer musk secretion and that of natural civet, have been only one of the factors that directed a new approach. The new guidelines of the European Union/IFRA and of the FDA dictated a substitution of ingredients which would pose a risk of allergic reactions or toxicity. Oakmoss is among them. So is birch tar and coumarin. Reasons of stability, longevity, unlimited possibilities and consistency also come into play for companies.
The issue is complex and companies rarely admit to the change for their own reasons, giving a rise to angered voices complaining of a cheapening of the formula (voices which are not always that educated themselves, I am afraid).
New launches have been proportionately bigger in synthetic ingredients than natural ones, of course. There are even perfumes composed entirely of synthetic ingredients, prompting Chandler Burr in his Synthetic No.5 article in the New York Times (Face, Aug.27) to hint that one very popular perfume is made so and the company is not letting him reveal the name because of the huge prejudice against synthetics in consumers’ minds.
Although I agree with his points made before that, namely that synthetics are expensive as well (sometimes even more so than naturals) and that the notion that natural equates safe while synthetic equates dangerous is not entirely true, I have to point out that this might explain the ignorance of an average consumer, but it does not stand up to a perfume lover’s scrutiny. And this is what Perfume Shrine is always striving to accomplish completely independently and non-strings-attached.
“Creating a perfume without them [synthetics] is like painting a picture without blues or reds. You could do it, but why?” mr.Burr quips.
Personally I find this irrational. The spectrum is composed of 7 colours in the visible end, which would make us think that therefore synthetics amount to 2/7 of the total of possible smells. And yet, there are thousands of smells not yet experienced. A never ending journey into the compounds that make up our world and the worlds farther off in the cosmos. The human nose knows no boundaries in this quest. So it would be a little presumptuous to declare that synthetics, man-made substances, have the ability to encompass almost 30% of all smells. Not to mention that the simile reminds me of the vibrational theory....because maybe that's just me.
The following quote is also a bit over the edge to me: “every great scent, from Armani to Gaultier to Lauren, is built on them [synthetics]”.
Not to dwell on the fact that the afore-mentioned houses have not produced that many great scents (because that might be just my personal opinion), but to imply that only the use of synthetics accounts for the production of a great scent rules out centuries of masterpieces that have been maybe lost on us.
There is another prejudice, I am afraid; that one is on the part of perfume experts and non-experts alike regarding natural perfumers. Some aromatherapists started blending simple perfumes from essential oils about a decade or so back. Those of course were not proper perfumes but alloys for the enhancement of an experience in a spa or meditation. Then, Mandy Aftel wrote Essence and Alchemy which spawned the interest in natural perfumes. Natural perfumers are not aromatherapists, who use aromas for their beneficial use on the mind and body. They just like the aesthetics of natural ingredients and have a greater appreciation of nature’s complexity. They use concretes and absolutes that aromatherapists don't use, not to mention that they study classical perfume structure. Seems pretty valid to me. The main objection of perfume experts has always been that it would be difficult to manipulate natural essences, because they can be multi-nuanced and changing from batch to batch, and to coax them to comply with the given objective in the creative process. Natural perfumery has only got to prove that it can and the proof would be in the pudding, so to speak.
To cut a long story short, the issue is not easily resolved and there should be no aphorism uttered about either naturals or synthetics in my mind.
In the interests of keeping things on a balance however I have embarked on the appreciation of certain natural perfumes, three of which produced by Anya’s Garden I will go on to review shortly. So stay tuned!
Pic is from the controversial Girbaud campaign and since we are intent on the controversial, it seemed fitting ;-)
this is my first visit to your blog and my second comment. i like your blog and your words. see you again:)
vivien - 08 09 06
Wanted to add, for reasons of factual accuracy:
Dr.Turin stepped in on a thread on POL forum to rectify a misconception or two (and I quote):
“a) Synthetics are extraordinarily cheap fine chemicals: the price range of aromachemicals is from $5 to $400 with most clustered around 15-40 (all per kilo). The $400/kg are very few in number (Muscone and Javanol come to mind) and used only in small amts because they are powerful or have a unique effect.
b) There is no direct relation between the price of a synthetic and its olfactory quality. The price of a synthetic is dictated by ease of synthesis and scale of production, which respectively depend on the vagaries of organic chemistry and on demand. Different grades of a synthetic may smell different to be sure, but the variations in price between grades are small (factor of 2).”
perfumeshrine - 17 10 06
I actually thought obtaining natural musk is illegal worldwide?
I’ve got no qualms about synthetic substitutes especially if it’s to keep our animal friends safe :)
Snarkattack - 22 11 06
I agree about the animalic ingredients, but those are only 4 actually (musk, civet ambergris and civet) and one of them (ambergris) does not even harm the animal, since its excreted freely and floats on the ocean (it’s dreadfully rare and costly though and that’s why it isn’t used usually).
The case definitely has to do with synthetics replacing other natural costly ingredients, not a desire to protect our animal friends unfortunately.
perfumeshrine - 22 11 06
Natural ingredients from flowers, seeds, fruits, roots, woods and in some cases from the sea and cruelty-free animal products combine their forces in the perfumes composed by Anya Mc Coy, a former landscape architect and urban designer and now creative head and owner of Anya's Garden Perfumes.
Anya’s name is not an oxymoron as she uses the real deal, ingredients with a firm grip in nature. She has been dabbling with natural essences for a long time and after years of training in the French methods of perfumery and lots of experimentation she has created 3 unique and original hand-made scents: Pan, Fairchild and Riverside.
The perfumes all come in Eau de parfum concentration, which means that they are quite lasting and at the prices of natural ingredients what they are they are good value for money, I’d say.
One main difference is that they are not intrusive, there is no big sillage like department store frags, nor is there the initial sting of the top notes the latter produce upon initial spray.
Anya’s perfumes also take on many nuances, sometimes changing with the weather in their expansion/volume, not regarding temperature as much as humidity in the atmosphere. The explanation of that has to do with the core of the craft iteself, as Anya explains in her introductory page.
Let’s see them up close one by one…
Fairchild:
Named after the homonymous Tropical Botanic Garden at Coral Gables in Florida, this is a lush and challenging fragrance for anyone seeking something different.
The initial hesperidic, tart top with some “kick” is completely mesmerising. The opening "peppery" note comes from pandanus, rarely used in perfumery per Anya, taking one on a flight to unknown shores and buried pirate treasures.
The salty marine note to come next is miles away from the aluminum-canned variety that is zombie-ing its way in all those Aqua di Gios (all full of calone and dihydromercenol) in Sephora aisles, devouring millions of unsuspecting youths who were sadly never given a chance to know better.
Perhaps due to the completely new to me Choya Nakh (a smoky essence coming from toasted/roasted seashells, no less, crushed into sandalwood) and because of ambergris tincture as well (which acts as fixative) the composition makes me think of a summer holiday by the beach; white hard rock and turquoise; wet hair clinging possessively on warm skin; tropical flowers caught into the thorny shell of a sea urchin, its deep orange flesh sprinkled with citrus having been eaten raw and discarded by hungry child-divers, bare feet with dead seaweed stuck on soles; nails scraping on a juicy mandarin.
The big jasmine heart of not one but three varieties, coming from the bush emanating its fragrant sweet heat when the dusk sets, has a tart smell along with the opulence resting on an animalic base.
On the whole it has the challenging and weird character that Caron’s Alpona, that citrusy juice-drinking in the open crisp air of the countryside, also possesses. Here trodden upon leaves and roots on the floor of a cut-down tree alley along the shore substitute the French countryside.
The inclusion of crushed, dried hedychium root is also a novel element that I have never come across in another perfume. The root is supposed to be very aromatic with a somewhat pungent smell similar to the extremely costly and delicate orris root, but even more powerful. Galangal root also makes an appearance with its magical properties, which I will let you get to know by yourself...
A very, very interesting perfume. Would love to wear this.
Official Notes: Pimento berry, ambergris, champaca gold and white, Choya Nakh, Clementine, galangal root, green oakmoss, hedycium root, jasmine grandiflorum, jasmine sambac, orange peel wax, pandanus, pink grapefruit, seaweed focus, ylang ylang
Anya's description: fiercely floral, narcotic, hot, oceanic, rootsy
To see the range of perfumes click here.
To get samples to try her intriguing perfumes or contact Anya click here
Next post will be about Pan.
Pic is Dune by Isolano/Flickr
Helg, what a beautiful review! The way you wrote about Anya’s Fairchild really conjured up the scent for me. This one and Pan are marvellous – I can’t wait to read what you have to say about Pan. It’s easier to wear in my opinion, while Fairchild is really complex and unusual. The pandanus and citrus and animalic notes really pulsate with tremendous amount of energy that is almost overwhelming!
Ayala (
email) - 11 09 06
Marvelous review. I could almost smell this just reading it. I will have to explore Anya’s website. Thank you.
JenT (
email) - 11 09 06
Ayala,
thank you for the compliment. I am glad it was vivid for you. Indeed it is a wonderful, complex perfume and it is my favourite from the bunch, I think. It’s challengng and completely original.
perfumeshrine - 12 09 06
Jen,
thanks. It is worth exploring, I can tell you that! Good luck.
perfumeshrine - 12 09 06
beauty without ugliness is boring. For instance, grown-up versions of the kitty poster are the paintings of fire-lit cottages strung with wisteria that you see in malls.cheap perfume is more abstract than figurative painting. Still, the idea of creating beauty through imperfection is valid as ever.
cheap perfume (
email) - 28 09 06
You have a gift my dear. It’s impossible to read your reviews without wanting to try the fragrances you so eloquently conjure.
Snarkattack - 22 11 06
Oh, miss G, thanks so much *blushing…..
perfumeshrine - 22 11 06
The Renaissance and the 19th century literary/arts movement by that name dictated a return to a rustic ideal, the mystique of nature and the pureness of a bygone world.
Pan acts as a homage to the Greek goat-shaped god of Arcadia. Standing for nature’s life force, the bucolic, the hidden libido of the paysage and its fauna, Pan is represented as a horny goat playing pipes, calling all to join him in frolicking.
Although only the pipes remain in a modern world to remind us of him -while in perfume circles Jitterburg Perfume by Tom Robbins, a novel that features him as a character, is mentioned from time to time- Pan’s imprint on the Balkans can still be discerned.
Ragoutsaria is a primeval ritualistic “dromeno” that takes place in winter in Northern Greece in the city of Kastoria, just when nature is sleeping in expectancy of a resurgence come spring. The Greek word “dromeno”(=happening) comes from the verb “dro” which means do/reenact and is the etymological root of “drama”. It is no accident that “tragedy” (which is one category of drama) stems from the Greek word “tragos” which means…goat. The cult of Dionysus (who was seen accompanied by Satyrs in goat form) is the ancient origin of tragedy -and drama in general- more than 2500 years ago. In the above mentioned “dromeno” people dress up carnival-style, some of them dressed as goats to this day and dance and sing and party carrying phallic symbols to steer away evil spirits and induce earth to give good crops. Pan, the goat god with the erect phallus, is symbolically the protector of herds and the impregnator of earth along with other agricultural gods.
In Pan the perfume all those rich references are alive and kicking.
The innovative use of tinctured goat hair acts as a new fixative (while not making an appearance per se in the end product smell-wise). Anya explains: “Tinctured goat hair is like spikenard brought to Eden and back -- transformed. A perfumer has to be willing to take chances and not be bound by fears or prejudices.”
This completely original ingredient comes from around the horns of a rutting billygoat (where there are glands that secrete a concentrated essence that can be harvested by cutting the smelly hair, without harming the animal in any way). Goats have been used before, their hair “combed” by peasants to yield essence because those animals have been known to graze along coastal regions where rockrose/cistus labdanum grows, so the hair retains the smell of the plant which is useful in perfumery (and is an ingredient integral in the chypre family of scents), but this innovation in Pan is pushing the envelope one big step further.To my knowledge Anya’s Garden is the first brand to make use of such an ingredient. Kudos for originality in a market saturated with the same tired stories over and over again!
Animal ingredients, when they come indeed from an actual living being and not a lab, are imbued with the elusive mystique of “pheromones”, those aromatic substances that are in part responsible for choosing a mate in the animal kingdom. If only it were as simple as that in the human arena as well…
Pheromones cannot be successfully synthesized in a laboratory, neither can they be grafted from another animal to our own “corpus” and although many perfumes from Realm to Philosophy’s Falling in Love have made claims of harnessing those animal powers in the form of a synthetic substitute for safe human use, the results have not been any more substantial than those rendered by the old standard placebo, proving that sometimes suggestion is much more potent than olfaction.
If that is truly the case though, all the more power to a product that actually does contain an animal ingredient which, even if not proven to stimulate pheromone-related attraction, cajoles our limbic system with the wink of an animal known for its feral, relentless sexuality.
The scent starts on a strong, musty, herbal and woody opening that may startle you, but a little patience is more than welcome to fully appreciate its insidious message. The deep green colour of the juice is inviting you on a trip you never thought would be so. Seville Lavender (Lavandula luisieri, which is an interesting variety and apparently is indigenous to Portugal ) adds its unusual herbal note to the mix, but this is not the standard cleaning-day lavender we are used to in most perfumes and household products. In fact it wouldn't be identified as such if sniffed without warning. The impression I get is of freshly peeled bark rolled onto camphor balls and rosemary. It's an exciting thing for sure! You can read about all iberian lavenders here.
After a couple of minutes soft woody notes appear with a little sweetness following quickly on its footsteps. At this stage it is almost cuddly, with an androgynous quality. A fluffy cloud over blue skies, casting shadow over the mountains and the woods, playing games with the sunshine that is emerging after a short spring shower on the damp earth; animals coyly sticking their heads out from their hideaways. And it's whispered that soon, if we all call the tune, then the piper will lead us to reason. And a new day will dawn for those who stand long. And the forest will echo with laughter.
Pan has a musky inviting smell, a bit winey, animalic enough to rival Musks Kublai-Khan maybe, yet it is not difficult to wear.
I suspect the actual musky smell comes from the natural Hibiscus abelmoschus seed , an ingredient I have read is much used by natural perfumers both for its great musky olfactory aspect but also its fixative powers, making perfumes last on the skin as an alternative to synthetic musks that are abundant in more mainstream perfumes (such as the ingredients Galaxolide, Exaltolide, Habanolide, Muscenone etc. which are patented molecules churned out by the the big perfume producing companies).
The fanning out of good and probably aged sweet patchouli oil, which is a predominent note throughout, gives an earthy powdery quality that furthers the herbal theme and consolidates it in our conscience for good. The remnants on skin are lingering seductively.
Official Notes: goat hair, cedar, Seville lavender, hay, patchouli, beeswax, musk seed, white lotus
Anya's Description: agrestic, sweet, herbal, woody
To see the range of perfumes click here To get samples to try her intriguing perfumes or contact Anya click here
Next post will be about Riverside.
Pic is statue of Aphrodite and Pan (courtesy of greeklandscapes.com) from the greek island of Delos and can be seen at the Natioal Archaeological museum in Athens. You can see it bigger and read the funny description here.
Pic of patchouli sent to me by e-mail (unknown source)
Lyrics quote from Stairway to Heaven (with sincere appreciation to J.Page/R.Plant).
The title brings to mind the English translation of Caron’s legendary Fleurs de Rocaille. And yet, today we are not going to discuss that one. Instead, Riverside by Anya’s Garden. It is so gratifying to come across a perfume which has an element of the old-fashioned tradition of bygones: true, natural floral essences, rendered by techniques that have gone missing in recent perfumes.
A very floral, more traditional composition that doesn’t jar anyone’s perceptions like Fairchild or Pan does.
It starts on a rosy aspect with lots of geranium and not the familiar old-fashioned intense powderiness of many a rose fragrance, combined with orange blossom/neroli voiceovers that lend some delightful fruity harmonies (actually they’re from blossoms whose smell- although very floral- also brings to mind the fruit to come).
Orange blossom absolute and neroli both come from the flowers, but different methods of extraction render a separate product that has a different smell.
True neroli is distilled from only the blossoms of the Bitter Orange "citrus aurantium" whereas Orange Blossom can come from any orange tree and is more generic. Citrus aurantium is the genus known as Seville bitter orange, the “pig of perfumery” (since it yields so many ingredients)
Petitgrain is also distilled from the leaves of the Bitter Orange, this one from the leaves. (On the other hand, orange oil is cold-pressed from the skins of the fruit of any orange variety and differs slightly among types.)
The water left after the distillation of neroli or orange flower is called a hydrosol. These floral waters are often sold as gentle facial toners/refreshing mists and could be even used in cooking for their soft aroma.
Neroli in particular bears a name imbued in history. By the end of the 17th century, Anne Marie Orsini, duchess of Bracciano and princess of Nerola , introduced the essence of bitter orange tree by using it to perfume her gloves (which was customary at the time, to get rid of the tannin smell of skins, ergo the gantiers later became parfumeurs ) and her bath, thus inaugurating the trend for such smells; later it became the floral core of the classic eau de Cologne.
Neroli has a refreshing and distinctive, delicately spicy aroma with sweet and flowery notes and is one of my favourite uplifting, happy notes in any perfume that it graces with its presence.
Curiously in Riverside the neroli does not make its presence felt at once, upon application, like I am used to (it being a volatile ingredient). I get whiffs of it and of a green lemon-y note like that in O de Lancτme in the midst of other petals unfolding endlessly.
The smell of Turkish rose otto , which is a very costly and precious ingredient is also making its appearance, but sadly I am in no position to fully appreciate it, because rose is not one of the flowers I am taken with. Quality however always shows and this is no exception.
The drydown is creamy and hazy with an unidentified element that is not my personal favourite; honeyed and very sweet to me, , very complex in smell, with elements of bitterness interwined with the sweetness although the beauty of the natural flower essences is undoubted. However if one waits for another couple of hours there is still one more element to come to the fore, which is completely beautiful; a powdery, caramel soft base that lingers and lingers.
Official Notes: pink peppercorn, Turkish rose otto, neroli EO and abs, Jasmine auriculatum, rose geranium, citrus leaf bouquet, orange flower water, musk seed, vanilla, Vanuatu sandalwood, beeswax, tonka
Anya's Description: rosy floral, citrus, peppery, vanilla, fondant
If you want to see the whole range, click here
To contact Anya or order samples, click here
Pic is Upsidedown by Isolano/flickr
I had almost forgotten that there was a blog attached to your site – I just went back and read everything from the beginning. I really like your review style, and all the wonderful stories you tell, as well as the art and poetry. I will not be forgetting about you again!
Flora - 18 09 06
Your encouraging words are very kind, Flora.
Indeed many people only know the site and not the blog. Hopefully the latter will be enjoyable and helpful as well.
Thanks and hope to see you here again.
perfumeshrine - 18 09 06
this sounds so up my alley! Turkish rose otto…and neroli! how wonderful!
Snarkattack (
email) - 22 11 06
Anya uses top quality ingredients and in floral fragrances that is a must!
perfumeshrine - 22 11 06
Versace is a designer brand imbued in glamorous baroque images, often over the top, Napoletano insieme Milanese. If one doesn’t know the difference between North and South in Italian culture I guess this is hard to grasp, but suffice to say that anyone in the south aspires to be accepted by northern circles.
Gianni and his family were born in southern Reggio in Calabria, the picturesque corner that produces the best bergamot in the world. His fate, a glorious albeit tragic one, was punctuated by excess, style and fervor for classical antiquity that was manifested by the use of meanders and medusae in his opulent, colourful flamboyance.
His life ended alas abruptly; murdered in Miami in 1997, this was a roman tragedy. Donatella, his sister, is carrying on the torch. Or so they say. Personally I think there is something missing in there and one of the sectors that is not especially fulfilling in their impressive industry is the perfume-producing one. And not just lately.
In the plethora of their offerings they cater for men, women and children alike, yet the real gems are few and far between. The really innovative, escapist The Dreamer, created by nose Jean-Pierre Béthouart, is standing proudly alone in the universe of men’s fragrances, fresh and warm simultaneously, with its eerie cocoa and gunpowder accord, of all things! Completely unique and very worth getting.
Blonde, created by nose Natalie Feisthauer -homage to legendary Fracas- is a tuberose typhoon that could whip the most insolent person into submission; glorious in parfum. The Jeans series in all its colourful permutations (Red, Blue, Green, Yellow, Black, White, Metal) is not to be taken seriously per their press releases and they are all fun perfumes indeed, but nothing more I’m afraid.
Lately they have reverted to their all powerful advertising, replete with hints of a ménage a trois, through Crystal Noir, an alloy of amber and gardenia (Donatella’s favourite blossom); a floriental that accomplishes the feat of topping a small bottle Atlas-style with a dark, heavy “rock” hardly capable of balancing on it, shown below.
And here is the latest blurb on the newest product, Bright Crystal: a feminine perfume as a flanker perhaps to their Crystal Noir, but only in the presentation:
“Versace introduce Bright Crystal, a fresh, vibrant and floral fragrance, with delicate tastes of colourful and juicy pomegranate grains, lotus flowers and the enticing presence of plant amber, acajou and musk. A perfect scent for the Versace woman who is a hybrid of strength and confidence yet feminine, sensual and always glamorous.” Official notes: pomegranate, iced accord, yuzu, magnolia, peony, lotus flowers, plant amber, acajou and musk.
The bottle is indeed very pretty, if a little precarious to hold. Faceted crystal like huge quartz or an aspiring to be diamond, it corresponds to its name really well. It is girly and glamorous to the max, meant to be displayed on a flamboyant dresser. “None of the apothecary style and austere designs for us, thank you”, ms.Donatella seems to be saying, flicking her ultra blonde mane to the wind, glossed lip and tanned skin aplenty.
Reading the notes, I was surprised to see a discrepancy between them and what my nose actually smelled. “Delicate tastes of colourful and juicy pomegranate grains”? Are we supposed to taste the jus? And what’s up with the pomegranate? Jo Malone used it in her likeable Pomegranate Noir and Demeter too and suddenly it became the latest trend? I am a little confused, since what I smell upon application is mostly grapefruit with its admittedly succulent aroma or at least a member of the hesperidic family (yuzu). An opening of tart, fruity freshness that is very pleasing to me, echoing the same deceptiveness displayed by Un Jardin sur le Nil by Hermθs (although this one goes in different paths from there on) or the more straightforward assertiveness of In Love again and the syrupy-sweet of Baby Doll, both by Yves Saint Laurent . Recent studies have shown that women who wear grapefruit-laden perfumes are perceived to be younger than they really are and I don’t know if it is done on purpose, but the growing number of fragrances for women which feature that particular note points to that direction. This is not a bad thing smell-wise. It does make for a déja-vu, however.
I was also surprised in noticing that the familiar watery floral note of lotus and the other florals are very subdued and not making a grand appearance like I expected by the description. It is as if the floral heart rushes through to give way to the base elements. It segues into soft woody notes and clean, feminine “white musk”: the overall feel is nothing like the exotic acajou and plant amber they have been touting, if only because I never knew they were able to extract essences from a tree mostly known for its homonymous hair-dye colour and its nut. Oh lΰ lΰ, maybe I am being mean here. Poor lab technicians have broken their backs trying to come up with a new molecule for that one! As to plant amber…is there any other variety? I think we all have been educated on that score, already.
The lasting power leaves something to be wished for, because the volatile top notes which account for the fresh impression are very soon gone and the base ingredients do not have enough tenacity. Expect a couple of hours at most, it then needs re-applying, although on the blotter it stays on a little longer.
Mind you, the overall effect of this new perfume is not displeasing; it will not offend, on the contrary it will be nice, young, uplifting. Ladies who love pretty and young things like Gucci Eau De Parfum II in the pink square bottle, In Love Again and the like will be adding this to their wish lists for Christmas possibly.
But where is the innovation, the surprise, the rush of something different? I will settle for the Versace ties and foulards myself.
Pics courtesy of Escentual.
Dear Helg-
I’ve enjoyed your posts for quite awhile…
I, too weary of big names that cannot back up their efforts.
It’s painfully reminiscent of all those amazingly over-educated folk who can’t manage to tie their own shoes, but are replete with doctorates galore…
Everyone may mess up periodically, but , bottom line-
SHOW US THE JUICE !!!
I am not a petty soul. I don’t think you are, either.
Perhaps they are convinced of the quality of their offerings?
Or, perhaps, they pander to what they perceive is a taste for mediocrity?
Damned if I know…
Be well, and thanks for your candor!
chayaruchama (
email) - 18 09 06
I agree with you that the juice is much more importan than presentation. Did you know that only about 2-3% of the budget of commercial mainstream perfumes goes into the cost of the actual juice? That’s something to ponder…
As to taste for mediocrity, I wouldn’t go as far, taken into account that most of the insipid ones go out of production soon enough. But then, so do lots of the very interesting ones…..It’s a complex issue: what the masses want and appreciate.
perfumeshrine - 20 09 06
The human brain needs small incentive to go on a day dreaming track when provoked. A casual question on a perfume forum made me think about what constitutes chic in perfume. The unanimous response reigning supreme was Chanel #19, a scent I personally love and consider very chic indeed. Other chypres also featured prominently. However the issue deserves pondering on and not just writing it off with a few predictable recommendations.
Antisthenes, the famous Greek philosopher, has a saying attributed to him, by which I have abided all my life: roughly translated, the beginning of wisdom lies in exploring meanings. So what is chic? I have thought about that, first of all.
People have different definitions: some consider chic equals “confidence, timelessness...fragrances that are effortlessly stylish”, others say that it “means fashionable, to be sure, but also stylish in a kind of lean 'n' mean, insolent, provocative way” and cites models of a certain designer house as examples.
Ayala, a perfumer herself, had this to offer: “timelessly stylish (as opposed to the passing fashion-du-jour). There must be something about it just a little bit cool or aloof in a way - as if there is no real attachment to the scent (or the fashion item), and they are just used as a tool...”
Luca Turin addressed the issue in a humorous way in The Emperor of Scent: “Chic is first when you don’t have to prove you have money, either because you have lots, so it doesn’t matter or because you don’t have and it doesn’t matter. Chic is not aspirational. Chic is the most impossible thing to define. Luxury is a humorless thing, largely and when humor happens in luxury it happens involuntarily. Chic is all about humor. Which means chic is about intelligence. And there has to be oddness –most luxury is conformist and chic cannot be. Chic must be polite and not incommode others, but within that it can be as weird as it wants.”
By that same token, Madame Clouzot, sister to film director Henri-Georges Clouzot, in talking about French perfumery she deemed only two houses as really great French perfumers. She then ascribed Guerlain to cocottes (=kept women), while Caron was for duchesses (proper, proper chic). What the French consider chic nowadays is “a sort of kept-woman vulgarity”, luxury that shows. So I do find myself simpatico with that opinion expressed above.
Many times women’s glossy magazines, fashion editors and coffee table books devoted to style do spreads with images alluding to the following ladies: Jackie Kennedy-Onassis, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly - and Katherine Hepburn if the editor is having a good day...More subversive personalities, like Diane Vreeland or D.Furstenberg, are considered exceptions that consolidate the rule. In that light, chic at some point deteriorated to certain "style-icons" of Western perception and scope.
A pearl necklace, a camel coat and black leather pumps look. You know what I mean. Timeless, classic, a little preppy. (I am having a difficult time imagining in those terms what would be chic in India, for instance, if one takes into consideration clothes’ tradition and climatic differences) But what was it that equated chic with that look? Is this chic? Not if a hundred women out there go out and copy it; because isn't chic supposed to be sophisticated? And what is so sophisticated and individual in following in the footsteps of someone else, someone as well known as the style icons just mentioned? I mean, everyone would expect it. Hmmmm......
In the interests of objectivity I searched the term online too.
The Free Dictionary had this to offer:
adj. chic•er, chic•est
1. Conforming to the current fashion; stylish: chic clothes; a chic boutique.
2. Adopting or setting current fashions and styles; sophisticated: chic, well-dressed young executives. See Synonyms at fashionable.
noun
1. The quality or state of being stylish; fashionableness.
2. Sophistication in dress and manner; elegance.
By that definition, chic has a stylish air, a contemporary element (not something obsolete) and yet possesses elegance aplenty.
Also there is this definition by Wikipedia: “means stylish or smart, as reflected in styles of fashion such as heroin chic or boho-chic”. This leaves much more leeway, though, for almost anything.
So what are the perfumes that personify all the elements of chic? What is elegant, contemporary, sophisticated, non aspirational, confident, insouciant, and humourous?
Maybe it can be better defined by what is not in that league.
Too much luxury has an effect of “blinding” the sensory receptors, registering as bordering on show-off. Cascades of costly ingredients, rich velvet feel, gold tinged nuances: all that points to the direction that the wearer wants to be perceived as wearing a rich perfume (why that would be desirable, enough to make it to a beauty magazine such as Allure with the corresponding views of Frédéric Malle -the head of “ Éditions de parfums”- in the article "How to smell discreetly rich", is perhaps the theme of another article). What could be included in this super-luxe category? Obviously the Clive Christian and Amouage perfumes, which are so costly they surely stand as the olfactory equivalent of a Hèrmes Birkin bag -in crocodile skin, no less; costs as much as a small car and has a waiting list of at least two years. I’d rather give my money to charity, thank you.
Unfortunately, although not as pretentious, there are other perfumes, lovely, gorgeous perfumes that bring to mind lush plush and starched banknotes: Joy, Shalimar, Boucheron femme and homme, 24 Faubourg. They don’t smell un-chic. But they do smell conformist, like someone who wants others to know he/she has good taste. Alas many orientals suffer from this affliction.
Too much sexuality is also anathema to chic, not because very sexual beings are not chic per se (they can be, as proven by some ), but because advertising one’s sexuality with perfume might border on the desperate. So hairy-chested, virile, traditional male aftershaves that purport their attractant properties like Kouros, pheromonic experiments and perfumes that have the dubious fame of resembling odorata sexualis (such as Musc Ravageur, Boudoir, Shocking, Obsession or Ambre Sultan to name but a few) bring to mind catcalls to carnality and cannot be seen as insouciant. Sorry…They do serve their other purposes admirably, though.
Too much experimentation on the other hand, that avant garde that is so prevalent among niche brands with unusual synthetic ingredients that mimic everyday objects of sometimes even an unpleasant nature, are also removed from the elegant part of the equation. Comme des garηons is a prime candidate, although I love their Incense series.
Obsolete creations that have withstood a myriad incarnations or bring on the reminiscence of another era can also be excluded. They do attach themselves to ageist jokes of a cruel nature and this is sadly to their detriment as well as to the joker’s. I am afraid Quelques Fleurs suffers from this fate, along with certain old lavenders, such as Yardley English Lavender. It’s not a fault of the perfume; it’s just that they seem far-away and not intended for a major revival.
And there is no need for me to elaborate on why fragrances that smell too much like food do not have associations with chic, now is there?
So what does that leave? I find iris scents and non invasive chypres chic. Some aldehydics can be too, if they don't conform too much. Even some select orientals could, if one wears Opium the way I do: very casually. Yes, Chanel #19 is very chic, exactly because it never shows off and is never more or less than a lady. Miss Dior is also playfully audacious and naughty under the effluvium of floral notes. Rive Gauche vintage is so coldly steely it can cut a swath in a room and make everyone wonder without ever becoming bothersome. Bois des iles is wonderfully composed to sit equally well on men and women, in formal or informal attire. Tauer’s L’air du desert worn by a discerning male could be very chic. Defiant. Mitsouko in all its veiled mystery can be chic, simply because it never elicits the instant recognition compliments and is sexual in a most intriguing, never obvious way. Guerlain Vetiver is always chic; dicreet but individual. Alpona or Jicky on a man could be all those things as well. I would like to put Madame Rochas in its older incarnation in this league, along with modern ones like Voleur de roses, Timbuktu, Fumerie Turque, Tubereuse Criminelle and Iris Poudre. Possibly there are others too.
Does perfume play such a major part in grafting chic-ness onto an individual? Is that even possible? I don’t know for certain. All I know is that chic needs humour. So maybe even the least expected perfume can be viewed as chic on a person who has the wit to make it his/her own.
Pics from top: Palopa Picasso by Helmut Newton 1973 courtesy of temple.edu, Grace Kelly courtesy of Silverscreensirens, Obsession originally uploaded by Theresa Duncan, Rive Gauche pic by Perfumeforyou.com.
Dear Helg-
I love the workings of your mind.
I echo your sentiments.
chayaruchama (
