Perfume Shrine Blog

The move...

Thu, 28 Dec 2006 09:51:00 -0400

Due to technical reasons, this blog has moved. You can now find Perfume Shrine on Blogger.
Please update your bookmarks.
http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/

Hope I will catch you there to continue our journey into fragrantland.

Miracle Forever: the latest from Lanc�me

Mon, 18 Dec 2006 10:04:00 -0400

What is it that makes us pick up a bottle and anoint ourselves with its jus tentatively in the first place? The inviting colour, the presentation, the name, the brand imbued in history, the luring advertising? For me and Miracle Forever it was surely the beautiful colour of the bottle. Cradled in a simple architectural glass vessel of intense rosy-tinged purple Lanc�me�s latest offspring will surely catch the eye. Justifiably so.

Lanc�me is no stranger to perfumery. In fact its founder Armand Petijean, a Frenchman who had been Fran�ois Coty�s student, started his company in 1935. While vacationing in the French countryside, Armand Petitjean happened upon a castle ruin that intrigued him- Le ch�teau de Lanc�me. Inspired by the delicate, fragrant roses which grew among the weathered stones he went on to choose the rose as the symbol of his new company because he believed rose encapsulated the feminine beauty of a woman, hoping to bring the same beauty he experienced into the lives of all women.

Or so the legend goes. There is some controversy to the issue and out of a pure journalistic and historic point of interest I set out to see if this is true. Especially as Lanc�me shouldn't necessarily be written with an accent circumflex. Armand Petitjean was looking for a name that sounded typically French like Vend�me or Brant�me. It was one of his assistants that came up with the idea of "Lancosme" (in which the "s" is not pronounced) - the name of a ch�teau in the Indre region of France. This impressed Petitjean and the spelling was eventually changed. The circumflex now perched above the "o" is the one that replaced the "s", in an effort to establish the idea of French-ness to the international market and the rose became the symbol of the company, appearing on boxes and in ads ever since.

The debut of the new fangled company was orchestrated with meticulous care and precision. Not one, not two, but five exquisite fragrances were simultaneously launched at the June opening of the Universal Exhibition in Brussels in summer 1935. The scents were Tendre Nuit, Bocages, Conquete, Kypre and Tropiques. A prize followed for mr. Petitjean�s company.
With his firm now firmly in the center of attention, he went on to produce skincare and makeup with great success, coming to the US in the 50s, attaching the company�s name to prestige and luxury from France for women everywhere. The line-up would then be joined by the immaculate oriental Magie.
Nearly all the bottles for the company�s scents were created by the great artist Georges Delhomme and they are today collectors' items. The Fish-Moon bottle for the eau de cologne Cachet Bleu (1935) is especially celebrated while the bottle with the engraved jasmine in bloom could contain different fragrances. The sensually shaped amphora of Marrakech brought out in 1947 today commands astronomical prices.

Envol coming out in 1957 combines rose and jasmine, and the bottle, with its original bud-vase shaped design, is complete with a rosebud cap.
In 1969 �, a fresh eau de toilette full of petitgrain and lemony tones with a tenacious sandalwood base that prevents it from fleeting into thin air was introduced in a frosted bottle with designs like a 60s wallpaper. Very pop-art and it soon firmly became a favourite for many people who embraced its fresh breeze in an era ripe for revolt and change, to hell with the old. This was followed in 1987 by � Intense, a now defunct offering that supposedly made the cologne more in tune with the heavier atmosphere of the carnal 80s, based as it was on rose absolute, a heavy attar. The accent circumflex is again redundant, but it entered the name in an effort to consolidate the spirit of Lanc�me to the comsumer�s mind, a subtle move of great cunning, copied also in � for Men, another discontinued item, since the original was secretly used by many discerning males anyway. The last flanker to join this line was � Oui ! in 1998, and this one has stayed the course, but to me it is hardly related to the original, as it is bursting with aqueous fruits, in which melon is predominant, on a base of eunuch-innocent musks and has none of the crystalline transparency of its older sister.
Meanwhile the great Sikkim was launched in 1971, a rich fragrance enriched with Bulgarian rose and jasmine combination on a base worthy of a Caron perfume. Today Sikkim is sold exclusively at the Lanc�me Institute: 29, rue du Faubourg Saint Honor� - 75008 PARIS
Not to bypass the completely elegant floral chypre named Climat that aromatized the 70s with its aura of infinite grace and romance , the men�s Sagamore with the intense woody character of a bygone era or the dark oriental �parfum fourrure� (fur coat perfume, as the French call these) brilliantly baptised Magie Noire (Black magic) of deep incensy rose with disturbing amber and labdanum.

It was the year 1990 that saw the great bestseller of the brand, Tr�sor, a quite heavy-handed but soft, powdery, fruity composition by nose Sophia Grojsman, allying rose with peach in a formula that in fact relies mainly in 4 ingredients: Hedione (a synthetic jasmine), methyl ionone (a sweet fruity aroma), Iso E Super (a woody synthetic), and Galaxolide (a synthetic musk). The winning combination proved uber-successful to the point of asphyxia in many a european elevator during the early nineties.

The same intense fruitiness with the former -and the intentional spelling accident appearing in �- persisted in Po�me in 1996. Fronted by the gorgeous, vulnerable looking French actress Juliette Binoche this was a mega-launch that was accompanied by verse by Baudelaire and Hugo for a fragrance that relied on an overdose of what appears to be orange blossom in clotted cassis (a fruity synthetic berry base). The sledgehammer sweetness dictates an extremely light application of this one.
The limited time window of the seasonal offering Mille et une rose to celebrate the millenium, which left hundreds of fans of its wonderful ambery rose tunes crestfallen when it got discontinued, has been recently amended by the introduction of 2001 Roses which is to be a mainstay, along with Sikkik, Climat and Magie in a Collection with limited distribution at select stores.

Miracle was added in 2000 with the face of Uma Thurman and the motto �Lanc�me believes in miracles and magic� and Miracle Forever is joining the fairytale as a flanker now. Apart from the original Miracle, there is also Miracle Summer (2004 Limited edition), Miracle So Magic (2004) and Miracle Ultra Pink (2005), not to mention the male version Miracle Homme. As all these fragrances (the women�s at least) are more or less simple florals with varying degrees of depth so a woody oriental permutation was needed to clinch the deal and bring Miracle into the whirlwind of today�s taste for the sweet and patchouli-rich aromas of women�s perfumes. Of course one might argue that this segment has already been filled in Lanc�me by Attraction (a not so successful attempt at an orientalised sensual perfume inspired by Angel) and the truly too recent Hypn�se (2005, another take on the gourmand patchouli orientalia of Angel).

Miracle Forever begins its fragrant journey on the weirdly spicy trip of star anise, the fragrant star-shaped fruit of Illicium anisatum, coupled with the sweetness of blackcurrant as if someone has spiked a kir royal cocktail with a pinch of a Chinese culinary aroma. The touch of the aromatic makes for an interesting beginning that is not completely out of synch with the light energising ginger accord of the original Miracle, although that one culminated in a floralncy that was less sweet and more airy.
The heart is floral with peony and white florals of which tuberose is listed, yet does not make its presence known to my nose. Instead the almond blossom which featured also in Yves Saint Laurent�s Cinema and in Kenzo Amour recently, lends a little powdery touch in alliance with the heliotrope spectrum, while the whole culminates in the rich patchouli swirls of fancy that fan out vanilla and amber in copious amounts, restrained only by a tad of cedar in the background making it last long. The overall sweetness differentiates it from the more woody, albeit similar in construction Allure Sensuelle by Chanel, making it more intense and more in your face. I think this is its greatest fault and the reason some will find it too much. If one genuinely likes the recent variations on the sweet patchouli fragrances, like Armani Code, MontBlanc Femme, Euphoria by Calvin Klein or indeed Hypn�se, Miracle Forever won�t disappoint. For the rest it is a case of a slight d�j� vu.

Miracle Forever comes in an Eau de Parfum concentration in 30ml/1oz , 50ml/1.7oz and 75ml/2.5oz and the ads feature brunette beauty Shallom Harlow. It has already launched in Europe this fall, while it will launch in the US in 2007.

Pic of bottle from Perfumemart, ad for Envol courtesy of Okadi.

Fragrant news: soon it might be Eau de Kate and Gwen

Fri, 15 Dec 2006 17:42:00 -0400

Coty Inc., that firm of an illustrious past and a perilous present, has signed a new deal for a fragrance licencing deal with the naughty super-model Kate Moss of innovative fashion sense and snow-sniffing affinities and another one with singer Gwen Stefani.
What is not-so-affectionately known among perfume-loving circles as a celebrity scent, that is.
Coty has under its belt fragrances either in the lower or the upper division (through the network of Lancaster cosmetics) that bear famous names and is in fact the leader in that specific market segment. Names of such famous people as C�line Dion (C�line Dion , C�line Dion Notes, Fever and Belong), Jennifer Lopez (Glow, Miami Glow, Glow in the dark, Still, Live), Sarah Jessica Parker (Lovely, Lovely liquid satin), Kimora Lee Simmons (Baby Phat), David and Victoria Beckham (Intimately for men and women respectively), Shania Twain (Shania Twain) and Kylie Minogue (Darling) feature prominently on bottles of perfume under the Coty Inc. umbrella.
Another deal has also been signed with singer/rocker/sporadic actress/enterpreneur Gwen Stefani, whose favourite scents include many Victoria Secret's body lotions and the aromatic oeuvre of Vivien Westwood (Boudoir, Libertine). It will debut in fall 2007 and is said to represent her sense of style, as expressed in her own fashion label of clothing.

Whether the juice will be any good remains to be seen, but this celebrity trend has taken really outlandish proportions.
Only in 2006 a staggering number of 26 celebrity-endorsed perfumes have hit the market. According to fashionunited.uk, "The first celebrity to promote her own perfume was Elizabeth Taylor, back in 1991, when the actress launched the successful White Diamonds scent. The trend really gained momentum with the success of Jennifer Lopez's perfume Glow which was launched in 2002 and generated more than $80 million in sales in its first year."
In fact, and to put accuracy back in journalism, the Italian actress Sophia Loren had already launched along with her eyewear collection an eponymous scent in the previous decade, in 1983 to be exact (click thepopup to see the ad) and, lest we forget, Catherine Deneuve also had a perfume with her name on it in 1986. Those two however had been very good, quality scents (a chypre no less!) that met with an unjust demise. There was also the line of Alain Delon and Omar Sharif, both launched during the 80's. Few of them escaped unscathed.
Autres temps, autres moeurs!
The recent frantic pace of the market however made celebrity-endorsed products reach an all-time high, with every A-lister and plenty of D-listers as well, having launched lifestyle products (and eventually perfume, worse luck), beckoning us to wear them, eat them or smell like them! Why would anyone in their right minds want to smell like a dubious personality such as Paris Hilton is beyond me, but the fact remains.
You shalt not judge lest you be judged and all that, however and the verdict will come when I get to sniff the labour of Kate and Gwen (or more accurately, of the noses who will work for Coty on their behalf). Till then......

Info on the upcoming deals comes from Women's Wear Daily. Pic of Kate Moss courtesy of the Pirelli calendar

A fragrant tour of Paris

Fri, 15 Dec 2006 10:54:00 -0400

Paris has a mythical status in the consiousness of every perfume afficionado and a stroll along the boulevards visiting the perfume boutiques could be an adventure of exploration in itself. For those who haven't planned a Christmas trip there, the best alternative I have come up with is this spectacular Flash presentation offered by Osmoz and Nicolas Olczyc. Click the link to begin the journey into the heart of Paris.

You can browse the boutiques of Colette, Comme des Gar�ons, Annick Goutal, Jean Patou, Ma�tre Parfumeur et Gantier, Fred�ric Malle, Palais Royal Shiseido as well as the Printemps, Cristofle , Herv� Gambs, By Terry, Pierre Herm�, Ladur�e, La grande Epicerie, Herm�s George V. A virtual tour that will leave you somewhat satiated, hopefully.

The artwork is Paris Kiss by Migdallia Arellano courtesy of allposters.com

You're the touch of wind, that surprises my body

Wed, 13 Dec 2006 12:07:00 -0400

For reasons of symmetry with my previous post, and antithesis as well (taking into account the above song talks about a never-ending internal winter that the singer cannot put up with anymore), I have decided to present you a list of male perfumes that could be used throughout winter; so as to "be a touch of wind, that surprises the body".

The song above can be listened to by clicking on the window. (courtesy of mpanikos on Youtube). It is sung by Greek songwriter Alkinoons Ioannidis from a record composed by Nikos Zoudiaris and is called "I cannot". The title of today's post is actually a line from the lyrics.

The whole text follows, translated by me:

If you could only slip in the darkness,
if you could only fly like an elf;
Tonight I will surely die,
I will die if I can't see you.

Aided with sweet wine I will become
an argonaut and come and find you.
To just meet you for a while
in my soul's seabed.

No, I cannot. Winter is hurting me.
Any more I cannot...
My yard is burned by snow, any more I cannot.

You're the touch of wind
that suprises my body
I have never satiated myself of you,
it was all but a moment.

XS Black by Paco Rabanne
Don't think of it as Extra Small, think of it phonetically: Ex-Cess. Excess of loveliness, of novelty points, of prettiness in a new release antithetical to the blandness of recent offering for men. Young and sweet, redolent of strawberries, pralines and patchouli with an unidentified floral note in there. Official notes: calabrian lemon, kalamazni, praline, cinnamon, balsam, black cardamon, palissander wood, black amber and patchouli. To me it's the illegitemate child of Innocent by Mugler and L'artisan's Voleur de Roses who has inherited very becoming genes.
If one is as cute as the boy advertising it, it doesn't hurt either.

London men by Burberry
The best tobacco and mulled wine-spice combo I have smelled from the recent batch. I have already said my piece . Go read it and then hurry and go test it!

Habit Rouge by Guerlain
Named after the red riding jacket of men for going hunting on horses in the english countryside this is class and comfort in a bottle. For men timid enough to go for the iconic oriental Shalimar and women who want a little less vanilla on their body.
First launched in 1965, composed by perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain, the fragrance has attained classic status. It opens with citrus, then meanders along a slightly spicy path to some cinnamon paired with patchouli, finally leaving a leathery, vanillic impression. Powdery like opoponax and soft like a caress. Take care as the eau de parfum now circulating does not share the same formula as the classic Eau de cologne.

Arabie by Serge Lutens
Do you hide a man from the souk in your heart? All khol-ed eyes and heavy languorous lips? (This last bit brings to mind another great Alkinoos song which I will post when I fully review this one). One of the few fruity scents I like. Dried, candied fruits like dates in a gold liquid and the magic of benzoin bring exotic and intense pulsations to your mind. It smells coppery...

Obsession for men by Calvin Klein
The scent of choice for a rich, intense, dark, full-bodied amber with a touch of sweetness. It is single-minded and has one single effect. Makes one want to jumb your bones. Even felines seem to be attracted to it, per one zoo study (!) I won't elaborate. Needs to be sold with a NC-17 warning label on the box.

Antaeus by Chanel
This is pure man's clean sweat and animalistic labdanum. Created in 1981, still sexy after all those years. Complex and passionate like the mythological hero that inspired it. For when you want to make an impact!

Vetiver Extraordinaire by Frederic Malle
After all the sweet recommendations, a dry one for the grand finale. Vetivers are usually left aside for warmer weather as they have the quality of giving a grassy, earthy, cooling feeling that is so welcome in summer. This has the best qualities of the erathy aroma, not coupled with citrus as usually happens and lasts well and it struck me that it could be worn on a very bright, cold, snowy day, when the whole world is glistening with the pureness. The resinous base hints at you that pleasures of the home await after snowfighting.

Years go by and I'm here still waiting, withering where some snowman was

Tue, 12 Dec 2006 10:12:00 -0400

Today is cold and gloomy. And despite all odds, I feel elated, "a little warm in my heart when I think of winter". The meteorologists have predicted the first snow around the area I live in. Although I know I probably won't see any, as I'd have to drive quite a bit to escape the smog that prevents snow to fall, just the thought of the silent, white blanket craddling our hopes and yearnings is enough to make me dream.
Winter has always been a favourite time for me for reasons beyond logic. It's an instinctive preference, formed at a very early age. As my mother, firm in her belief that children should brace the cold so as to become sturdy (and I did), took me for a stroll as a toddler in bitter cold along the pier, seeing the angry stormy petrol-green sea splash furiously, the wind on my flushed little face, steel skies towering over me, my hands in woolen mittens, candied apples consumed, I felt happy and strangely at home. That was who I am. The joy of returning to a warm house augmented the pleasure already experienced, to be greeted by an adoring father.
Although I am not the person who becomes overjoyed in Christmas for reasons already discussed (much more prefer the Orthodox Easter which is a vastly more mystical and sensual -tied to pagan- celebration in my mind) , winter never fails to make me feel like I was when my feet couldn't touch the ground when I sat on the very armchair I am now sitting cuddling with a good book.
And so perfume should follow. Hence a little list of things that bring to my mind all the joys of winter, of love, of "white horses gone ahead".

Quotes and the title come from the lyrics of the trully great, moving song "Winter" by Tori Amos which you can listen to by clicking on the window above (courtesy of Rasberryswirl on Youtube). You can read the lyrics here.

Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens
Who else but Serge and Shledrake could come up with a vanilla that is comforting, rich, smooth, deeply woody and never tacky? Vanilla is such an ubiquitous smell, really, which makes it hard to do properly. This is grown up, but with a wink to our childish aspirations.

L by Lolita Lempicka
I had bought a bottle in summer and reviewed it , when it first launched here, but didn't open it for months, relying on samples. Now is the proper time to take the plunge and crack my beautiful bottle open. To me, this is the perfect dark vanilla, with the inclusion of immortelle that adds a salty kiss on warmed skin. Created by Maurice Roucel, responsible for Poison, Musc Ravageur, Farenheit, L'instant andInsolence

Must by Cartier
Best in pure parfum, Must smoulders and entices, unfolding siren notes of civet and amber anchoring narcissus and mandarin. The unexpected green note of the start has a loose-mouthed effect on the rest of the formula. It highlights it, the way the best conversationalists inspire interest by an unwonted beginning.

Fifi by Fifi Chachnil
From a french lingerie company, this is lacy knickers in dusty antique rose to wear between fluffy blankets, your hair in loose curls. Sweet blond tobacco and citrus notes clash and couple adoringly, a little soapy element with a swoosh of powder, much like Boudoir by Vivien Westwood is constructed, with copious references to the milkiness of Luten's Fumerie Turque. It has a complex character, lighter than Anne Pliska, that was surprising to me and it is definitely complimended by cold weather, as it smells nothing like it should in the heat (hence my delayed appreciation for it).
Thankfully that's one perfume that smells actually better in eau de parfum than parfum/extrait. So, it's also economical!

Muschio e Ambra by L'erbolario
This little italian company makes great products of skincare and perfume and has the most nostalgic labels imaginable; they all seem like they have come out of a paintings index. Muschio e ambra tranlsates as musk and amber and has the delightful smell of aged patchouli and slightly bitter fir resin that stays on your skin for hours on end in the eau de parfum.

24 Faubourg by Herm�s
Because after all the orientals one associates with winter, one would want a rich floral to lift the spirits and immerse oneself in their delicacy. This is like the queen of elegance and it veers on floriental. Rich orange blossom on a smooth amber base, sweet but not sacharine. Imagine yourself draped in thick silk and powdered to perfection, your lips painted in a becoming auburn shade to compliment the dark colouring of the juice. Another Maurice Roucel creation. This is the very elegant, classy projection of a lady. Go for the eau de parfum in winter.

Gucci EDP I by Gucci
A nostalgia for great perfumes of the past makes for this thyme, cumin, orange blossom and heliotrope-laced composition that is anchored by vanilla and orris. It smells the way grand dames smelled, but has some air of modernity in there as well, making it a very urban offering for a lady with a hidden side. It proved not to be a big seller for the house, which could be good news (you'll be more unique wearing it) or bad (it will at some point get discontinued), depending on your outlook in life; as with everything else.

Schizm by Ayala Moriel Perfumes
You have probably guessed by now that Ayala's natural perfumes have made an impression on me. Besides her very wintery Fκte d'Hiver her more complex, chypr� Schizm is exactly what its name alludes to; the duality of woman: it starts peppery and sharp to segue onto floral notes of which the narcottic tuberose prevails, all bedded down in a country road near a forest, leaves trampled underfoot a campfire smelled at the distance. The official notes are: Black pepper, Cedarwood, Mandarin, Tuberose, Orange Blossom, Jasmine, Oakmoss, Musk notes, Incense

Angel by Thierry Mugler
I am talking about the body cream and not the eau de parfum here. Big vats of nasty chemicals are what many people perceive and yes, I can see why. I am doubtful it contains even one natural ingredient in there. And I know, most of you have either a love-it or hate-it relationship with it, because of its mothballs rolled in toxic caspirene-coumarin aroma of choco-caramel and patchouli. Just try a smidgeon of the body cream. It's all one needs...

Douce Am�re by Serge Lutens
Bittersweet, more bitter at first, less so after a while, weird like glue, it transports the soul. A mix of cool and warm, it interpolates various moods, that crystallise in one absinthe-liquor prepared the original way, with vanillic sugar on the spoon and everything.
If one is melancholic but not really sad, this compliments the mood admirably in the colder season.

Pink Sugar by Aquolina
What a glorious candy fair smell that reverts us to childhood all over again? The mega-blast of intense tooth cavity giving sweetness is very intense, so what better time to use just a small bit in the dead of winter? Not to be taken seriously. Caress the inner child!

Essence of John Galliano by Diptyque
The complete antithesis of the above mentioned Pink Sugar, for good measure and to prove the schizophrenic tendencies of Perfume Shrine. Not a proper perfume but a room spray that also comes in a candle. Upon spraying the association with tar and birch is overwhelming, so I suggest decanting in a dab bottle to use on one's hands. (it needs a little distance from your face) Dark, deep smokey incense paired with guaiacwood, evoking mustiness and darkness, serenity and centering all in one, rich like Avignon by Comme des Garcons, but with less of a warm feeling, much in the manner of Etro's Messe de Minuit, albeit more wearable.

Tell me what your winter fragrances are!

News for 2007, just before the end of the year

Sun, 10 Dec 2006 17:27:00 -0400

As the year draws to an end, it is time to ponder a little on how many new perfumes have launched and are set to launch next year. About 650 every year is the average for the past couple of years per studies, a staggering number that shocks me for the sheer inability to be tested, appreciated and fully understood before something new comes along yet again. It is no wonder that very few survive in the 5-year margin that is the point of great success in the perfume world now. It is also no wonder lots of those do get launched as an ephemeral thing in the first place. It seems we are stuck in an era that idolises novelty value (market-wise) and we are manipulated like sheep to the cult of the new.
Do I condone that, since I often report on new items? Not entirely, no. But it is better to make an informed decision on what exactly to sample, so that one has one's priorities all mapped out. It saves both time and energy, precious commodities in our hectic world.

So without much further ado, here is a list of things that are due for launch in 2007. Some of them have been discussed before, some not. Take notes on anything that takes your fancy as I am doing as well.

Designers:

Alberta Ferretti eponymous scent
Armani Priv� Eclat de Jasmin (in US)
Armani Emporio Armani Red (in spring)
Bottega Venetta eponymous scent
Bvlgari Omnia Amethyste, a flanker to their Omnia, after Omnia Crystalline.
D Squared
Gucci II pour HommeJ
ean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Male, a flanker to his men's scent Le male (has a Beaudelaire touch, no?)
Michael Kors Island Hawaii (in early February, in time for cruise collections)
Narciso Rodriguez Narciso for men (in late summer/September)
Nina Ricci's Nina will be available in the US in 2007 (reviewed here, it launched in Europe last summer)
Roberto Verino Mellow
Sonia Rykiel Belle en Rykiel (details here)
Ungaro Apparition Facets, a flanker to his Apparition scent(in spring)
Yves Saint Laurent: a men's and a women's scent are set to launch next year, no conclusive info yet

Celebrities/Lifestyle perfumes:

Cirque du Soleil
Marilyn Manson (he says "it will smell of children"....hmmm...)
Lotus for men
Sarah Jessica Parker: a new scent, unidentified as yet (maybe men's?)
There are persistent rumours that Madonna is coming out with a scent of her own, but she has never confirmed. The rumours have been going on for years, although they intensified recently.

Cosmetic/perfume houses:

Bond no.9: Astor Place, Bryant Park, Coney Island, Sutton Place, Union Square, Brooklyn Boss Baldessarini Ambr� (details here)
Caron L'astrolabe (see more details here)
Chanel R�ve; this will be a re-working of Chance, per rumours. (details here)
Givenchy classics relaunched in August 2007 (more details here)
Givenchy Absolute (in dutyfree shops)
Gres Ambre de Cabochard
Lanc�me Benghal (in February at dutyfree shops): second in Collection Voyage, inspired by India (bottle here)
Lanc�me Hypn�se Homme (for men)
Lanc�me Hypn�se Leg�re (for women)
Leonard L'Orchid�e
Tom Ford 12 new scents in his eponymous collection: set out for March launch
Tom Ford new men's scent, probably called Black Orchid for men.
There also talks about a new harvest scent by L'artisan, just like with Fleurs d'oranger in 2005 and Fleur de Narcisse in 2006. We'll see...

Let's hope a couple of them would be great! Fingers crossed!

Pic comes from Salon Serpent, a tattoo artist's site.

Fragrant news: Secret touch

Fri, 08 Dec 2006 22:03:00 -0400

A liquid onctuous parfum gel, following in the footsteps of the very successful Chanel #5 Sensual Elixir or the rather new Velvet Sheer Aromatics Elixir by Clinique, L'instant Secret Touch by Guerlain hopes to cater to a market of women on the go, busy but also refined, who like to use this as a final embelishment before a rendez-vous. L'instant was perfumer's Maurice Roucel's previous effort at Guerlain, before Insolence (the latter sparking even greater controversy than his first foray into the iconic house). Although L'instant created a fracas when it first launched, as it was a break-up with tradition at the venerable house being the first one to lack the characteristic Guerlainade base of other perfumes in the stable, it proved to be a very popular and well liked perfume by many women. Hence their idea to launch a product that would bridge the gap between parfum and eau de parfum.

Guerlain puts it all too poetically, but the idea of applying perfume the old-fashioned way (although in a more sensuous and practical, less likely to spill form) is very alluring all the same.

"For Christmas, Guerlain has created L�Instant de Guerlain Secret Touch: designed to be used as a talisman in a secret ritual, this sensual, bewitching perfume is intensely feminine. As an object of desire, it is difficult to resist the magnificent Secret Touch. Its rounded, delicate bottle glistens like a jewel that kindles desire.
This spiritual talisman conceals a magic ink bottle eager to create a new and bold olfactory script. Drawing invisible letters on the skin, the wand tells an aromatic story to evoke the senses. One stolen kiss from this smooth gel and the skin exhales the sweetness of citrus honey, the freshness of light jasmine and the amber-based note of L�Instant de Guerlain.
Dedicated to all women who want to discover this sensual pleasure, L�Instant de Guerlain Secret Touch is a luxurious potion that will captivate you for more than an instant."

This new formulation is really precious, very feminine and sensual and lends itself to the ritual of applying perfume with the wand on pulse points, a process that seems quite silly when cradling a big sprayer which begs to be sprayed from some distance, like an all-over mist. The texture of non sticky gel is especially inviting for busy lifestyles, as oils tend to stain clothes and take a while to sink in. This one, like Chanel's #5 Sensual Elixir before it (which I can personally attest has a fabulous texture, by the way) does not. Applying it will envelop you in the soft, sweet notes of honeyed citrus notes, jasmine, luminous magnolia and crystalline amber, just like the regular L'instant.

The beautiful little bottle, shaped like an ancient greek alabastron (the ceramoplastic type used for storing perfume oils), supressing a wink to Yves Saint Laurent Babydoll all the while, holds 12ml (a little more than 1/3oz) and will be priced at 69.50 euros or 95 Canadian $; which is a steal compared to the 90.10 euros for 7.7ml (that's a tad less than 1/4oz) of pure parfum.
Available at every Guerlain counter and at Sephora. Also at the Boutique & Institut Guerlain (in Canada: 1350 avenue Greene, Montr�al, 514.933.6114 ; and of course in Paris)

If you are one who thinks size does matter after all a great deal, you can indulge yourself in the giant classic napoleonic bee bottles that have included -apart from L'instant- L'instant pour Homme, Shalimar, Mitsouko, L'heure bleue, Chamade, Vetiver, Jicky, H�ritage, Jardin des Bagatelles, Eau de Guerlain, Eau du Coq, Eau de Cologne Imp�riale, Eau de fleurs de c�drat (that's pretty much all the classics of the house, exclusing Parure and Nah�ma; bad impending news for both, I guess).
Each retails for a different price. L'instant giant bee bottle retails for 340 euros for half a liter of perfume.
The giant bottles are an alarming trend though, if one goes by the similarly monstrous ones at Dior (J'adore). We'll see how it goes....

Info from Guerlain newsletter , Sephora and Amabilia. Pic from Femmes Qu�bec.

8th December

Fri, 08 Dec 2006 21:44:00 -0400

Angelical demons or how something so dark can smell as sweet?

Fri, 08 Dec 2006 00:20:00 -0400

One might wonder what a picture of the Austrian actor Helmut Berger has to do with the legendary perfume commissioned by Marlene Dietrich to the house of Creed, Ang�lique Encens. And yet there is an unmistakable connection.

As is often the case with Perfume Shrine, obsessions take on many forms, one of which is cinematic. Helmut Berger, n� Helmut Steinberger in Salzburg, Austria in 1944 was director Luchino Visconti�s preferred actor and also partner for the length of Viconti�s last 12 years of life.
In the latter�s magnum opus �The Damned� (also featuring a very young Charlotte Rambling, another one of Perfume Shrine's fixations; the film is originally named �La Caduta degli dei�, meaning Fall of the Gods, and has influenced both �Cabaret� and The Night Porter artistically) he plays the role of Martin Von Essenbeck, black sheep of a rich family of pre-WWII steel industrialists, marxistically scrutinized in their entrapment into the Nazi rise and their role in history as they first resented Adolph Hitler, then accepted him, and at last embraced him.

His memorable tour de force as an immature, closet pedophile, perverse son to the unscrupulous arch-mother of the dynasty included a priceless segment in which he reprises the role of Marlene Dietrich in Josef von Sternberg's Blue Angel , her classic film of fatal seduction, for the delectation of family viewers.
The sight is compelling, disturbing and alarming to watch as real-life bisexual Berger, dressed in transvestite attire, down to the hat and stockings of Marlene, performs a dance and song at the beginning of the film.

Ang�lique Encens has an uncanny way of reminding me of that performance in its haunting quality. Created in 1933 by the house of Creed it ties in with the background of the Byzantine plot of the film as well, which contributes to my fixation. Apart from Marlene Dietrich, less mysterious Marie Osmond is a great fan as well, which is perhaps something you were better off not knowing, if you recall the cute image of the latter from 70�s shows.
Today the fragrance is part of the Private Collection, a collection of scents by famous patrons, which basically translates as very expensive and hard to get perfumes, if only because they come in truly huge bottles of 250, 500 or 1000ml. That�s a lot of jus! Enough to bathe in it literally. Luckily my sources are more cunning than that and I was able to procure a "decant", perfume-talk for a small quantity taken from someone�s larger bottle; naturally at a more reasonable price than that for the entire bottle.
Although Ang�lique Encens was created for a woman -albeit a woman that proved to be an icon for homosexuals for so long, still to this day- I can see it effortlessly worn by discerning and adventurous men, even if they do not share Berger�s sensibilities.

Built around the dark green of the strange angelica plant, the harsh green of it tied to Chartreuse , here it couples it with sensuous vanilla and incense. Ang�lique Encens is an anomaly in the house of Creed, because it lacks the shrill metallic note that most of the other offerings possess; sometimes to their detriment (Spring Flower), other times to their advantage (Silver Mountain Mist). Instead it is smooth and rich from the very start, which makes for an orientalised feeling right away. The vanilla shows itself through from the very beginning. It�s as if one has taken the peeled black pods and immersed them in a seemingly innocent beverage quickly under the table, adding dashes of alcohol; some person who is trying to hide the darker side of an addiction with a wide smile, seemingly appreciative of all your jokes and ramblings but with a too bright, crazy eye.
The inclusion of carnal tuberose takes an unexpected turn that astonishes with its intricacy and pairing with the herbal aspects, as it only reveals itself sporadically at the mid phase of the development of the glorious bouquet. Each unfolding stage is a wonder of velvet plush and baroque that entraps you in its spin of strange twisted comfort (an oxymoron if there ever were one). The inclusion of ambergris and unidentified precious wood and resins makes the perfume mysterious and mesmerizing, completely fit for the colder season, just likeThe Nutcracker Suite by Tchaikovsky is too. A little childish amusement, a lot of dark russian soul. The final drydown of vanilla and amber lingers on and on and on, making us doubt our ability to disentangle ourselves from our obsessions.

Official notes: angelica, tuberose, amber, incense and vanilla
Available from Bergdorf Goodman in the US, Les Senteurs and Escentual.co.uk (later by phone or mail order only and not on-line)
Mail info@escentual.co.uk or call 02920 437343 (shop: 63-67 Wellfield Road, Cardiff, UK)

Top pic of Helmut Berger courtesy of Robinson Archive. Pic of Visconti's The Damned DVD jacket from Wikipedia.

Magical elixir

Wed, 06 Dec 2006 08:11:00 -0400

Elixirs have long held a place in the collective unconsious as they denote the depths of erotic potions and amulets. The word elixir also alludes to the healing properties of such alloys and a portal to youth. Enter todays' scent, Elixir de Merveilles by Herm�s, which is a modern spin on the alluring subtext of such a term.
Medieval blends included herbs and balms of various sources, once of which was melissa officinalis. Paracelsus called this herb "the elixir of life", and combined it with carbonate of potash in Primum Ens Melissae, a mysterious alloy.
It is also recorded that one of Louis XIV's physicians, named Lesebure, tried the brew on an elderly chicken, which within a few days lost its tattered plumage, grew fresh feathers and started to lay eggs again. He had earlier tried it, bearing dramatic results once more, on two old servants, but the experiment never was completed for reasons not mentioned (we can imagine the distaste of servants however!)
Another of Paracelsus's elixirs, the Primum Ens Sanquinis, involved human blood and Alcahest, a universal healer which is based on caustic lime, alcohol and carbonate of potash. Gerard proclaimed melissa "comforteth the hart and driveth away all sadnesse," and it was a favorite in medieval "elixirs of youth". The alchemist Paracelsus made a preparation called Primum ens melissae, and even in the 18th century, it was still thought to "renew youth."
As an aside an interesting portal page for anyone interested about elixirs is this one , while there are also some arabic recipes that sound very good.

To the detriment of many perfume companies, I am sure, Clinique first had the hindsight to copyright this alluring and desired name for its aromacologicalAromatics Elixir perfume, back in 1972; a move that proved a masterstoke, as the mysterious patchouli chypre has captivated audiences in its dramatic sillage and mystery making it an enduring bestseller.

Elixir des Merveilles by Herm�s is the flanker fragance to the established Eau de Merveilles by the venerable house.
Not to be confused with Parfum des Merveilles which preceded it last year, this one adds a gourmand touch to the original composition which was created by perfumers Ralf Schwieger and Nathalie Feisthauer in 2004.

The original Eau de Merveilles, classified as an oriental woody, is an eau de toilette that has notes of bitter orange, Italian lemon, elemi, Indonesian pepper, pink pepper, ambergris accord, oak, cedar, vetiver, balsam of Peru and tears of Siam. Its citrusy start and spicy-salty character have contributed to its being labeled a classy unisex fragrance and a summer favourite for people who want to avoid florals or plain citrus colognes.
Parfum des Merveilles is a denser, more lasting presentation that came out in 2005, encased in the same smashing bottle on a tilt, done in metal, that adds notes of oak, patchouli, mosses, amber, balsam of Peru, davana, leaves and roots and an intriguing cognac note.

To add to our possible confusion over the bottles, a limited edition Constellation Eau de Merveilles done in light blue was issued at some point, which however included the same exact jus as the original.

In an effort to put a completely different spin on the original jus nez extraordinaire Jean Claude Ellena, resident perfumer in Herm�s for quite a while now, has added the succulent orange peel and tonka bean notes which culminate in the most discreet chocolate effect. The combination of orange and chocolate has been a favourite of mine and was until now to be indulged in Fendi's now discontinued Theorema. Naturally, as soon as they saw this was a decent jus they simply had to pull it off the market. Wouldn't want to spoil us with something really good, I guess! Imagine, we could get accustomed to real taste! Oh, the unthinkable!
The Ellena school of perfumery is veering towards the salty and bitter, with a transparent gossamer-thin elegance that is unmistakable and trully classy. However the restraint for which minimalist Ellena is famous for manifests itself in this one, making for a brew that is mouthwatering yet never too sweet or childishly foody. He showcased his ability for accomplishing just that in another sweet yet transparent creation for Frederic Malle, the heliotropin-laced fluffy powdery cloud of Eau d'Hiver. He also put his hand in the creation of an inexpensive yet great vanilla perfume of all things (I know, it sounds impobable for him, but there you have it), Vanille Sublime by Lily Prune.

Candied orange brings to mind Mandarine Mandarin by Lutens or his La Myrrh, both from the exclusive Palais royal collection, but this formula has less of the deep sweetness and tartness of either. The first hit of the spray is quite sweet, yet it dissipates as soon as the alcohol content evaporates and the unfolding of the heart takes it into the gourmand woody territory. The base note of the original, which allegedly includes one of the last batches of real ambergris (as Herm�s was quick to pick one of the rare batches of this wonderful material ) intermingles with its salty disposition into a garland of softly woody and powdery resinous notes, of which tonka bean is mostly discernible. It leaves a slightly powdery aura that is very seductive and the whole remains subtle and alluring, never intruding.
"For me, ambergris is a magical material," Givaudan's perfumer Ralf Schwieger explained to Woman's Wear Daily back in 2004 when the original Eau de Merveilles launched, adding that it reminds him of the biblical tale of Jonah and the whale, when the prophet was swallowed alive, to be miraculously released after some days.
"Ambergris has so many facets -- ambery, woody, dark, a salty-sweet concoction with [notes of] ink and tobacco. My idea was to re-create it in my way," he went on. In Elixir des Merveilles, the great attributes of ambergris are laced with complimentary notes that have the weird effect that a serving of chocolate M&Ms eaten with a hadnful of salty pop-corn would. Or caramel biscotti dipped into Hershey's chocolate syrup with its unmistakable salty aftertaste. Savoury and delicious, although it sounds unlikely at first. By now you must be thinking that I am a weird eater with some twisted tastes, but I assure you that food (and perfume) experimentation never hurt anyone. This is a likeable perfume and very fit for winter.

The official notes include: Orange Peel, , caramel, biscuit accord (vanilla, tonka bean, milk), sandalwood, incense, resins: Peru balsam and balsam of Siam, oak, patchouli, cedar and ambergris.
Available from major department stores.
Elixir des merveilles comes in an Eau de Parfum bottle of 50ml/1.7ozand 100ml/3.4oz coloured deep orange, a colour close to that which is inextricably tied in our minds with the trademark Herm�s boxes and paper bags.

Top pic comes from the official site of Herm�s, other two from Osmoz.

December is Natural Perfume Month

Sat, 02 Dec 2006 17:52:00 -0400

The fact that yesterday I reviewed the resinous spicy festive season perfume that is Fκte d'Hiver by natural perfumer Ayala Moriel was totally concidental in relation to the news I received just a few hours before. (time zones can do that to you!) The choice to review it had to do with the aroma alone, as it conjured up December to me perfectly.
Imagine then my amazement that the Artisan Natural Perfumers' Guild has has named December Natural Perfume Month in recognition of the growing interest in natural fragrances. "The first naturally-perfumed gifts associated with the month of December were those given in Bethlehem of frankincense and myrrh. Those fragrant tree resins are found in many natural perfumes today. During this month, ancient traditions called for a fragrant conifer tree, wreaths and boughs decorating the home. Today, the wonderful aroma of cooking with sweet spices like cinnamon and clove adds to the ambiance, creating a truly festive atmosphere."

In celebration of this you can browse the Natural Perfumery portal to really get to know what all this is about.

You can also contact the President of the Guild,Anya mc Coy at her new, refurbished site Anya's garden.

I feel honoured and joyful to be part of what seems to be a great new direction in perfume's brave new world.

Pic is Central Park NYC by Thatotherguy/flickr

Winter is here, let's celebrate!

Fri, 01 Dec 2006 10:45:00 -0400

The official start of winter in the calendar always brings a rush of joy and anxiousness as well in my psyche. The stress of the looming holidays in the end of December is enough to send my heart in palpitations wondering if I will have the time to meet my deadlines, to buy gifts for everyone, to prepare the home for the festivities and everything. In this context I need something soothing and reminiscent of the better aspect of December: nights by a log-fire, walks in the cool air, sipping mulled wine and lighting incense sticks and spice-laced candles. To that effect F�te d'Hiver by Ayala Moriel perfumes comes to the rescue.

As Ayala herself describes this at her site, F�te d'Hiver, which means Winter Festival, "is a heart-warming m�lange of incense, amber and resins, along with tropical white flowers, warmed up by spices. The result is as soft as powdery snow and as warm as cuddling by the fire place on a furry rug. F�te d'Hiver is extremely beautiful, sensual and festive yet wonderful to wear year around." Ayala is a natural perfumer who uses only ingredients harvested from nature and not from a lab. This is a new direction in perfumery that is witnessing a rennaissence. Her admirable craft has been tackled before with her creation Film Noir.

On this one the official olfactory pyramid goes something like this:

Top notes: Bitter Orange, Nutmeg, Bois de Rose
Heart notes: Rose, Gardenia, Allspice Berry
Base notes: Incense, Amber, Sandalwood

To me the orientalised spicy scent of F�te d'Hiver begins on the traditional spicy-orangey accord that one is greeted with upon entering any discerning woman's home during the festive season. This kind of smell always brings a smile to my lips and a wink in my eye, as being a die-hard winter person I feel happy smelling what is intextricably tied to wintertime and the traditional aspects of it. Throws in soft chenille, peels of orange burning in the fireplace, crackling sounds of great logs of pine wood, nutmeg laced pies being baked in the oven, family around the hearth.
Some might term this pot-pourri, and I could see the influence, but myself I admit I have always liked spicy pot-pourri and am not ashamed to say so.
The development of the emphatically warm scent is not dramatic, as the spices echo on every nuance of the perfume, with the addition of an ambery and incensy touch at drydown that consolidate my impression that this resinous fragrance for women (and men, why not?) has something very cuddly in its core, but also confident. The incense is particularly evident and it is the warm kind of a church in the south, redolent with the light entering through the luminous panes in byzantine rotondas.
The fact that the perfume comes in a parfum extrait concentration is a guarantee that the lovely ambery resinous spice is staying with you the length of the evening. And when you wake up, may you witness the first snow of the season having fallen in the stillness of the early morning.

Just for this winter Ayala has also brought out Bois d'hiver, which is a limited edition play on the masculine counterpart to F�te d�Hiver. "It is a very similar formula to what is known from previous years as �F�te d�Hiver pour Homme�, only now with the addition of the mouthwatering candied Christmas tree note of Fir Absolute, and fabulous, sparkling Orange Flower Water Absolute to chase away winter gloom and bring joy to your heart!" Sounds delish!

You can get samples and order your perfume at Ayala Moriel perfumes site. Please take a peek at her specials and take advantage of her miniature collections for the holiday season.

Painting is The meal by Nicolaos Gyzis (courtesy of Wikipedia)

Fragrant news: report from the scented front

Wed, 29 Nov 2006 10:41:00 -0400

Today I have amassed some noteworthy news for you. It seems that the world of perfume is constantly moving, especially now with the holidays looming up and it's hard to catch up, so a little shifting and selecting is needed.

Mypa, a mass market brand, has offered a different twist to calendars this year. Besides their Maquillage calendar (which has a set of 24 cosmetics & accessories), they have issued a Perfume calendar in a Marylin-look box. The appeal of a new calendar coming January is indeed strong and what better idea than one that features perfume miniatures signed Laurent Dormel? The total will be 24 minis and it sounds lovely for sure. The price isn't bad either: 19.95 euros in selected department stores (source: Osmoz) What better way to start the New Year with a smile?

The Christmas coffrets by Lolita Lempicka for their original feminine perfume and the lovely masculine Lolita au Masculin are waiting for you in the stores. The feminine one Pour Elle (for her) , playfully named 'Le Livre de Recettes des F�es' (Fairy recipes notebook - wow, what a name!) contains the eau de parfum along with cream soap and 2 samplers of exfoliating scrub and whipped cream for the body. Lolita presentations are always lovely, so worth checking out. The masculine one Pour lui (for him) is named 'Secrets d'Alchimie' (=secrets of alchemy) and apart from the eau de toilette it will contain 2 mini shower gels and 3 samplers of after-shave emulsion. Sounds like a good gift to offer to me.

Wintertime and holidays are seasons that naturally lend themselves to home decoration and cocooning, so scented products for home gain a new significance. Candles seem to be both pretty to look at as well as evocative of a mysterious and soft-lit atmosphere. In this vein some companies have just released the right products for such occassions.

Diptyque have come out with Opoponax Bronze candle in a frosted glass with a bronze hue imprinted with a purple motif, which will be a seasonal offering. It has sweet notes of woods, vanilla and myrrh and sounds like just the thing to light when the cold air is ringing outside.
By Terry (this is actually the famous Terry de Gunzberg that designed the Yves Saint Laurent makeup collections a few years back) has outsourced the talented nose Olivia Giacobetti to aid her with scented candles for the home. The candle range is called �Rouge� and is presented in a �Black Tulip� lacquered glass cylinder, while the candles themselves inside are a deep red. The scents avaialble will be Rouge Fondant (Meltingly Red) with notes of Dark Secret red rose and violet jelly; Rouge Piquant (Spicy Red), with Coccinelle (Ladybug) rose and pink pepper extract; and Rouge Infernelle (Infernal Red), based on the Midnight red rose, powdered flint and ashy wood. They come in 190 g glass container for 45 �. (source:Osmoz)
Another great idea for a Christmas candle comes from �couturier des fleurs� (floral designer) Herv� Gambs. His creation is called Pomme d�Amour (apple of love, with all its connotations of sin and attraction).and it smells of fruity and gourmand overtones, just in time for the holidays. It comes in a red glass container of 250 g for 39 �.
The Boutique is in Paris : 21 rue St Sulpice, Paris 6�. For more information :www.hervegambs.com

A piece of news that is intriguing in its subliminal messages is the fact that Les Parfums de Rosine, a brand imbued in everything rosey, has just opened a boutique in Paris, in the grand setting of the Palais Royal gardens, not far from the eponumous Shiseido salons which caters for the exclusive perfumes by Serge Lutens. It seems that exclusive boutiques in major capitals are the way to go for the niche brands with exclusivity cachet and in that regard Lutens has been in the vanguard of the trend. The decor of the boutique is in pink, grey and gold � since those are Les Parfums de Rosine�s signature colors . The designing was conducted by Guillaume Rogeon, who happens to be the house�s artistic director.
The address for those inclined to give it a go is: Jardin du Palais Royal, 105 Galerie de Valois, Paris 1er, Tel : 01 42 60 11 51

Finally, if you just want to have some perfume-related fun you can go to Sonia Rykiel site.There they have organised a new game code-named �Dis moi qui est la plus Belle ?� (=tell me who is the most beautiful) The objective is to write up the best message which will earn you the right to gifts every week and was devised to honour their newest release, Belle en Rykiel. December 19th will be the date that the great prize will be announced. That is a whole day spent in Paris, including breakfast in a parisian restaurant (watch out for those croissants!), a visit to the flagship Rykiel boutique and 2 seats at the runway pr�t-�-porter 2007-2008 of Sonia Rykiel. Check out http://lejeu.soniarykielparfums.com to participate in this great game!

Top pic is "What once was not brown" (courtesy of Existentialblu/flickr), pic of candle by Osmoz

Christmas Lists: my thoughts

Mon, 27 Nov 2006 08:08:00 -0400

The other day I came across an article on what to include in a perfume shopping Christmas list in the UK edition of Style supplement for The Times. I never want to plunge in rushed decisions and on top of that I have a penchant for introspection and some would say procastrination (those people would be right!). Christmas shopping, even if you do not celebrate the holiday per se, is a consumerism trait of our overindulged society and surely a quantitative measure of the market's dynamic. It's no accident that the majority of launches of mostly anything commercial happen in the autumn hoping to capitalize on the Christmas shoppers, neither the beginning of the holidays shopping sprees being increasingly put further back the calendar into November is any more haphazard. In a world where businesses depend on those holidays shoppers to up their revenue it's to be expected. Perfume in particular is such a commodity for most people: people who like to offer the luxury of a full set of products to themselves using part of the holiday bonus, spouses who have not come up with anything else rush out at the last minute on Christmas Eve to buy some favourite perfume for their wives, family members fill stockings with gifts of perfume for people who only go through a couple of bottles per year anyway, like young nieces or elderly grandmothers. However with the staggering number of 650 launches of new perfumes per year these past few years, this is another scheme to pick our interest and garner more sales.

To revert to the topic, however, after the blurb of my inner rebel, the magazine suggests the following:

Parfums d'Empire Eau Suave (in eau de parfum)
Lanvin Rumeur
Miller Harris L'air de rien (in eau de parfum)
Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque
Floris Night Scented Jasmine
Keiko Mecheri Bois de Santal
Ranc� Josephine (in eau de parfum)
D&G The one (in eau de toilette)
Parfums de Rosine Twill Rose

Observations? Predictably there are products which launched this very year or which obtained a wider distribution this year ( such is the case with Fumerie Turque which joins the export line of the Serge Lutens scents for Shiseido for a short period of time to then revert to the exclusivity of the Salons du Palais Royal when that time frame expires). The fragrances' aromas range from the fruity floral to the tobacco woody to floral to subtle oriental, so everyone is catered for. There are also some UK-based perfume companies mentioned, which is to be expected in said publication.

What is most noteworthy nevertheless is the abundance of recommendations that fill perfume niches. Only one perfume in that list is considered mass market department store fare ( The One by Dolce & Gabbana reviewed here ). And I say that knowing that Rumeur is to be found in department stores and Sephora as well, because the brand's cachet is mostly known to perfume loving people thanks to the classic Arp�ge, rather than the general public. What does this herald? The broadening of niche horizons? An increased awareness of smaller brands by the general public and an appreciation for what is different? And wouldn't that ultimately bring about either cheapening of the niches in view of catering for a wider audience or the loss of their exclusivity allure which would bring perfumed "aristocrats" to the verge of a nervous breakdown? Personally I don't think lots of niche brands have the backbone, nay the cojones, to cater for a trully universal market. Having said that however I would be thrilled if perfume awareness and education was more widely available, and if such lists prompt even one person to forget about preconceptions and go investigate what all these things really smell like, I for one would be overjoyed.

My personal Christmas list is yet undecided. I love to procastrinate, like I said. Your suggestions on what goes on your list though could bring a smile on my face and an "a ha!" moment, so don't be shy.

Pic is Praying Hands by Albert D�rer, one of my favourite artists, courtesy of Amazing Art Images

Fragrant news and reviews: new scents by The Different Company

Sat, 25 Nov 2006 21:11:00 -0400

"A Contemporary Vision for New Luxury" is the credo of of this young company with master french perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena at the helm. Without restraints regarding materials and artistic vision or briefs for a specific target audience, the company has produced such iconoclastic and unsurpassed in their uniqueness perfumes as Sel de Vetiver, Rose Poivr�e, Bois d'Iris, Divine Bergamote, Osmanthus or Jasmine de Nuit. The cosmopolitan vibe of the audience towards whom those offerings are geared is testament to their artistic vision.
And now three new offerings that promise the world and then some. The new lineup called �Explorations sensorielles� (=sensory explorations) is inspired by the original trio of fragrances composed by Jean Claude himself.
The line, visualised and mastered by his daughter C�line, alludes to a series of scents inspired by an imaginary garden.

The first one, called �Un parfum d'Ailleurs & Fleurs� (=a perfume of flowers and beyond) immerses itself in the waters of the baptistery of orange blosoom and tuberose soliflores, a most feminine genre of fragrances. The freshness of neroli and linden is evident in the top, with their happy and uplifting qualities, rendering this a perfume ravishingly fit for a summer afternoon. The addition of citric, sour and dry notes reminds us of the famous father whose penchant for the spartan sparse of dry, acerbic notes has brought on such masterpieces as Cologne Bigarade for Frederic Malle or D�claration for Cartier. Tuberose, the carnal lady of the night, takes on afterwards, sweetening and rounding the composition with its alluring properties. It is funny, but at one point in the Victorian era, young girls were discouraged from smelling these flowers in case they experienced a spontaneous orgasm, something much frowned upon then. The highly erotic nature of indolic flowers, that is flowers that contain indoles, aromatic matter that is also present in human feces, has a peculiar attraction and repulsion stigma attached. The intellectualisation of such matters is too high brow for what our own nose can abide, however, so this is a highly personal preference, evident in people who cannot do white florals whatsoever. In this perfume the tuberose is not a predator but instead allegedly allied to hazelnut flower (which I remember sniffing as a kid and feeling it greener and softer than expected) and juicy plums. The subtle result rests on the familiar cradle of musks, finishing off on a note of gentility and subtle seduction.
The whole is inspired by a French style garden which if you know anything about gardening you will know is about submitting nature to man's will; although the moniker of the company is talking about an ode to the virginal purity and the tentative voluptuousness of nature.
The perfume is markedly feminine and is encased in the solid, heavy crystal bottles of The Different Company with a rose tint. The official notes are : bigarade, petitgrain, neroli, mandarin, sambucus extract, star anise, linden, tuberose, hazelnut flower, plum, musks.

The second new fragrance �Un parfum de Charmes & Feuilles�(=a perfume of leaves and charm) is more mystical, trying to evoke a bucollic, secretive garden of a different style, that of a secluded place near Monmarte in Paris, an urban escape out of the ordinary world, a place where aromatic bushes and roots, woods and trees give off a primeval vibe. The verdancy of such an offering is a welcome sensual accessory for either man or woman and I can imagine it being fit for autumn as well as other seasons, thanks to the inviting touch of its base. The initial burst of marjoram, mint and thyme married to the succulent citrus notes of grapefruit and sweet clementine is akin to driving in the greek (or mediterranean in general) countryside, windows down and sniffing the aromatic richness floating in the air. An experience that is not particularly tied to perfume in the conventional sense, as it includes some bittery, angular notes but something not to be missed at any rate. The aromatic pungent burst subsides pretty soon, with the help of a floral honeyed note and the patchouli base reigns with a velvety smooth touch of hay. It adds a little swetness to the otherwise dry aroma of this particular perfume and makes it a very interesting light woody which has piqued my interest.
The bottle is the same as above and has a greenish tint.
Official notes are: marjoram, clementine, grapefruit (pomelo), mint, jasmin, sage, thyme, artemisia, patchouli.

Last but not least comes �Un parfum des Sens & Bois� (=a perfume of woods and the senses), a spicy woody fragrance inspired by a music piece by Debussy based on a poem by french poet french poet Mallarmι. . So we know it has something poetic going for it (wink!). It has struck me as a good smokey fragrance as well, as it instills subtle leathery pungency to smoke and wood, making the whole the equivalent of smoke rings on a sacrificial pyre, the tambourins of the natives echoing in the distance. I wouldn't know if the imaginary garden of that particular scent includes such exotic images, but the memory of our ancestors has a reign over us, especially in the gloom days of winter when such fragrances are brought out and cherished in the cool ringing air. In typical Ellena-light-mode however the whole remains just the echo of the tambourins and never the threat of anything sinister. The green piquant notes, out of which violet leaves seem to play a big role, marry with the acerbic lemongrass and ginger spice and the freshness of black pepper, like a demitasse of sacred tisane. The finish off is woody with the dominating note of chinese cedar (which I am not sure how it differs from Virginian or Atlas) and the combination with incense and patchouli leaves me with the impression that I am sipping an ancient brew besides the embers of an extinguished fire, dressed in a leather cape, the winter air in my hair. Man or woman would want to partake of this spicy, light incensy elixir.
The official notes are: bergamot, verveine, black pepper, violet, elemi, ginger, wintergreen note, chinese cedar, incense, patchouli.
It comes in the best bottle out of the three in my opinion: tinted in deep indigo like the clothes of the Touareg of the dessert.

All the new scents come in Eau de toilette concentration in either 50 or 90ml bottles. The coffret of three new scents can be ordered byThe Different Company website directly (10ml bottles of each for 39 euros) or you can order the complete pack of 2ml samples of each of their 12 fragrances for 15 euros. (that's a steal!)
The new perfumes are on Beautyhabit site already and bound to surface later on at Aedes, Luscious Cargo, Luckyscent and First in Fragrance.
There is also a new boutique in Paris: 3 Rue Chabanais 75002, tel.01 42 601274.

Pic "Growing different from the rest" originally uploaded by Isolano on Flickr

A re-orchestration

Thu, 23 Nov 2006 19:24:00 -0400

Reformulation seems to be the new name du jour for perfume companies. They sometimes miss terribly (Dioressence) while sometimes they invent something amazing (Femme). Baghari by Piguet seems to stand at the middle, being neither atrocious or disloyal to the original, nor the innovative masterpiece that could be the be all and end all. Taking that into account however it stands as a perfectly lovely little aldehydic floral that is sure to be enjoyed by lots of people. Not what one expects from the house of Piguet, who has churned out such controversial fumes as the lethal white femme of Fracas and the leathered dominatrix rolled in grass of Bandit.

The original, now vintage, Baghari was created in 1950 by Francis Fabron, creator of Nina Ricci L�Air du Temps (1948), Balenciaga Le Dix (1947) and Givenchy L�Interdit (1957). This venerable french "nose" composed elegant scents with polished and powdery notes echoing an aura of romanticism and the feel of the feminine New Look that had been introduced just 3 years prior by couturier Christian Dior. The vogue became one of feminity packaged as a lady who lunches discreetly with crinoline skirts a little below the knee, cinched waists, little hats and gloves for all occasions. Baghari was marketed in 1950 as a discreet and fresh fragrance for a young lady, but of course perceptions have changed so much (not to mention fashion trends) that it is impossible to imagine what the audience of BlackEyed Peas or the consumers of Miami Glow might find elegant anymore. Nevertheless, this is not an affirmation written in an attempt to look down on our day and age as is so prevalent among perfume boards, blogs and articles. Our age has also got its classics (Narciso for its loveliness, Angel for its innovation, Voleur de Roses for its unusual mix of rose and patchouli and a few others). Their time of reverence will come...

Not to divert from the point however, the new Baghari is a playful spin on the original. It was reorchestrated in 2006 by Aur�lien Guichard of Givaudan, famous for his acclaimed Bond no.9Chinatown. The main difference with the vintage is in the top notes and less at the base. The stark glaring white aldehyde of the original is replaced in part with sweeter notes, encompasing a little violet, a note which is witnessing a rebirth this year after eons of exile in the darkest corners of the perfume hall of fame. On a blotter it has a slightly spicy note that is deceptive. It really properly blooms only on the skin.
The notes for the original are: aldehydes, bergamot, orange blossom, lemon, rose, lilac, ylang-ylang, lily of the valley, jasmine, Bourbon vetiver, benzoin, musk, amber, vanilla.
In contrast the new one has: bergamot, neroli, aldehydes, violet, jasmine, orange blossom, rose Damascena, rose Centifolia, iris, vetiver, amber, musk, vanilla.

As the new Baghari unfolds its secrets there is a clean, almost soapy smell that is very becoming, like crispy linen on a laundry day, starched collars and preppy shirts laid out on the bed for inspection before donning them. It then sweetness considerably with the full revelation of the jasmine and orange blossom heart. The dance of rose with jasmine and violet is never ending, going on and on and on, into the territory of romantic and old-fashioned elegance of wisps of satin petticoats underneath. This is most definitely a floral for soft personalities, a little shy perhaps, a little wistful. There is a silent lucidity about it, that resembles a piece by Debussy. Full of emotion that is expressed in a tender and innocent, shining way; shielding our core and our memories from the ravages of the mundane, affording us a slow drive to sunny gardens.
The woodiness of the base has a hefty dose of powdery iris, a very expensive ingredient, lending an earthy dry afterfeel that lingers like the memory of a kiss on one's flesh, a skin-like aroma that seals the deal and makes this one reformulation worthy of its launch.
The comparison with Chanel #5, Le Dix by Balenciaga, Guerlain's Vega or Liu is not far off and indeed somehow Baghari seems a little redundant to me, since I already own Chanel #5 in parfum/extrait, which is a little muskier and woodier than this one, making it more seductive and secretive in my mind. But that's not to mean that the new Baghari isn't a lovely scent.

It can be had in a bottle of 50ml/1.7oz of Eau de Parfum at Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Harvey Nichols (UK) and Les printemps (France).

Pic courtesy of touteenparfum.

Beautiful bottles in time for Christmas

Wed, 22 Nov 2006 09:41:00 -0400

Just in time for Christmas, perfume companies have issued or re-issued beautiful bottles for their precious fragrances to entice us to buy perfume for ourselves and others. The packaging of perfume does play a part in our choosing a particular fragrance and although I for one would go for my holy grail even if it were packaged in a milk carton, I have to admit that pretty bottles and evocative design does make me daydream. Sometimes the bottle proves to better than the scent, which seems like a disappointment but at least you are left with a beautiful bottle on your dresser, which is better than being left with a bad one (and aren't there lots of those?) That's some sort of consolation for the visual part at least.
Some of the bottles that have caught my eye recently are the following. I amassed them here for your delectation.

First comes the limited editionCaprice de star by Thierry Mugler, the new bottle for his infamous Angel for Chistmas 2006, pictured above. �Caprices de Star� translates as �On the Whims of a Star� and is the bottle for the parfum/extrait. A stunning blue-and-white star-shaped crystal objet which cradles an ultra-concentrated scent (and Angel being what it is, you can only imagine) built around the eau de parfum�s mouth-watering oriental facets. The parfum retails for �160 for 20ml or 2/3 fl.oz. Available from major department stores.

The Dior offering for this Christmas, named Midnight Charm, is a fresh and sparkling departure that mingles Italian mandarin orange with green and fruity notes. The heart reveals a "peach-skin accord" blooming over a floral bouquet of Egyptian jasmine and Moroccan rose. The base has a mouthwatering touch of "glazed chestnut" (a French Christmas specialty; marron glac� which is really really yummy, it makes me salivate as we speak), amber and the musky sweetness of "skin" notes, all enclosed in a bottle that is inspired by the classic Dolce Vita bottle, now interpreted in silver and mauve. Avaialble at major department stores.

For our gentlement friends the bottle that has captured my fancy is none other than that of Victor and Rolf's Antidote. "While Flowerbomb (for women) is preventive, Antidote is a cure", the advertorial on Osmoz says. Which explains how avant-garde couturiers Viktor & Rolf chose the name for their first foray into men's fragrance. An olfactory extension of their ready-to-wear line Viktor & Rolf Monsieur, Antidote has a complex construction, like a bespoke suit. It blends sensuality, freshness and elegance by using an amber-wood potion; the emerald-hued juice is contained by a black cap with a wax seal that seems about to reach meltdown and is very much to my liking indeed.
Antidote is described as a lush woody Oriental, overloaded with flowers. It has been built around 4 facets. A floral facet, (encompassing a bouquet of jasmine, violet, peony, freesia, orange blossom and more), a spicy facet (blending cinnamon, cardamom, black pepper and nutmeg), a woody, almost leathery facet (blending patchouli, gaiac wood, white cedar, sandalwood and oak moss) and for the final course the amber facet, tinted with vanilla and musk. Fragrance designers: Alienor Massenet and Pierre Wargnye, IFF. Available at major department stores.

The bottle of Nuit d'amour, the latest boutique Guerlain following Plus que Jamais from last year, on the other hand is very exclusive; but it is so old fashioned and heavy in its bacarrat crystal that is bound to procure little cries of excitement by the lucky lady that receives it. The juice purpotedly is not as interesting, which is a shame, but today we are focusing on the packaging and the superficial rejoice of seeing a pretty bottle, so for once I am willing to bypass that. For those interested however it includes notes of pink pepper, lychee, rose, violet, iris, sandalwood, musk. Available from Bergdorf Goodman in the US and directly from the Guerlain boutique in Paris. The baccarat crystal flacon is priced at $2600; while the regular 60 ml size is $390. It might as well stay on the screen for all I care...

On the contrary, the limited edition of Mure et Musc by L'artisan parfumeur is a re-issue of one of their best selling fragrances and the succulent crystal bottle is good enough to eat which prompted them to bring it back again for those interested in adding it to their collection. A very tempting, gorgeous presentation. Available at Aedes in the US and from L'artisan boutique.

Burberry seems to be on an roll with their hugelly successful Brit scent witness the limited edition of Brit Red last year) and for this Christmas they brought out a trully spectacular limited edition bottle with golden tassels on a faceted crystal to resemble the brand's plaid in relief. Available from major departement stores.

The 24 Faubourg extrait is not new, but it is so beautiful in its crystal bottle with the golden drop of the jus inside that it merits a place in this post today. Trully classy scent of orange blossom on a bed of amber and one could not go wrong with getting some. One of the cases when there is no deceptive apperance. A modern classic that never fails. Highly recommended.

And because no crime is accomplished if the starring culprit isn't yet involved, Yves Saint Laurent parfums have gone out of their way to present this smashing new collector's edition of their mesmerising Opium fragrance. Enamel designs of oriental flowers over the solid lacquered black of the bottle, it's eye-catching on the screen as it is live in the shop, making mouths water from the loveliness. Which begs the question: do I need to add this to my massive Opium stash? I guess it does.

Pics come from Escentual, Amazon, Guerlain rep, L'artisan rep and fashionmag.fr. Many thanks!

Maquillage: the sweet scent of makeup

Tue, 21 Nov 2006 00:05:00 -0400

It�s always so gratifying to get samples from less known perfumers who put their heart into their perfume instead of marketing analysis and assorted research and development findings. Such is the case with Maquillage, the very likeable scent by amateur perfumer Armando Martinez. Over the few months I have been writing my blog, people have been asking me to review perfumes for their reading enjoyment, reviews that maybe they wouldn't see in any other perfume blog in some cases as the perfumes were not known and the sources were obscure and did not list notes. It has been my joy and pride to do so for them. This however is not such a case. In fact I was the one who asked tentatively if I could sample this perfume when I heard about it and Armando obligingly sent a sample along.

Armando has been dabbling with oils and essences and some synthetic aromatic materials as a hobby for a long time, being interested in the magical world of perfume for years. The scented memories of his life have been fodder for his experiments and his love for the vintage masterpieces of yesterday such as My Sin, Scandal, Tabac Blond or Shocking de Schiaparelli has not been eclipsed by his ardent love for all things nouveau niche such as Lutens� Ambre Sultan, Chergui or Bond no.9 New Haarlem.

His fragrance for women was baptized Maquillage from the French word for makeup and is redolent of his love for perfume in general. In an early first effort that was a homage to Jean Paul Gaultier's Classique, sweet scent of femininty trapped in the torso bottle that has in turn been inspired in looks by Shocking, Armando has captured the essence of a lady�s makeup paraphernalia and more prominently the aroma of face powder and satin cream lipstick in old bullet-style packaging. Oh, so elegant and glamorous, the times of bygones brought back with a nonchalant flick of the puff.

As I picked up the little bottle with the clear and oily liquid sample of the perfume my mind strayed into the avenue of a reminiscence of my own. I thought about the glamour of my grandmother�s trousse de toilette, all gold gilded bottles, often brought back from Paris. This was one hell of a glamorous grandma who used to order her clothes to the best tailors in town and her evening gowns to French ateliers, lavishing Madame Rochas and Miss Dior parfum with elegant gusto on her unstoppable person.

Maquillage would fit such a person. It begins its soft glamorous and nostalgic journey on a very soft, citrusy, bright and lightly sweet rose and honey note that is soon aligned to the candied scent of violet. Such a combination has a very feminine and cuddly smell, redolent of the mood that L�artisan�s Drole de Rose recalls. Frederic Malle�s Lipstick Rose is another rose-violet combo that could be referenced, and yet, Maquillage is not as sweet neither is it as penetrating making it infinitely more wearable in my opinion (because I prefer more subtle florals); although its great flaw is the lack of staying power compared with the monstrous tenacity of Lipstick Rose. The fact that Maquillage has a slightly oily texture indicates that it is not a lack of the proper aromatic materials, as I generally perceive this as a good sign, but maybe a matter of dilution which needs to be lower.
The drydown phase after about 20 minutes on my skin is a very soft musky powdery affair of the amorous pairing of iris and musk of a synthetic nature that warms up the whole, making it soft and pretty, with the merest touch of vanillic nature, just enough to render it charming and winsome.
The official notes are: lemon, lime, linden, honey, peach, rose, jasmine, violet, musk, iris, vanilla.

For a first foray into perfume, Maquillage is a very nice composition that would certainly benefit from an eau de parfum concentration. I think there is the promise of a bright future ahead of Armando Martinez if he wants to pursue it.

You can ask info and order samples of Maquillage directly from Armando by emailing at mandocmartinez@yahoo.com

Photo by Spyros Panayiotopoulos (courtesy of eikastikon)

Black Orchid: new baroque?

Sat, 18 Nov 2006 00:43:00 -0400

Intriguing as the "article" at the very back of the latest catalog of the luxury store of Neimans is, it entices the reader with a little story that is supposedly recounting the writer's experience with Tom Ford's Black Orchid. After having put this on, the author's husband glances up sharply at her as she enters the room. She smells "like another woman, but in a good way", he proclaims. She quips "goodness has nothing to do with it". We read her inward monologue questioning what woman would dare wear something with vanilla, incense and tonka in the daytime. As though the notes in Black Orchid are suppossed to be trully forbidden, behind wraps, stricly for special occassions only. The story reads like a documented real-life experience which is lovely and misleading at the same time. But with Tom Ford's genius in marketing (alas, not in designing) we shouldn't have expected any less.
The advertising image of the perfume capitalizes on the arresting young looks of Julia Restoin Roitfield, daughter of French Vogue editrix Carine Roitfield, made up in red lipstick glamour and smokey bedroom eyes on a canvas of pale flawless skin, posing like a Hurrell dame of the classic era of Old Hollywood.

Tom Ford explained his artistic vision for Black Orchid thus: �For the last decade, I think we've launched fragrances which, like everything, have become so stripped-down, so transparent in terms of color and often in terms of scent. They often become quite watered-down�everything is tested and retested, and while you might end up with a lot of fragrances, which smell good, it's not fragrance development in the old-fashioned sense. I really wanted to create old-fashioned, but in a new sense. For me to put a story back into fragrance and put the fragrance into a beautifully designed bottle and shoot it in a very lush way, this is a reaction to a decade of minimalism that has left people starved for content and substance,� Mr. Ford said. �I wanted a potent product.�
Tom Ford has been also known to proclaim that "I don't believe in the customer telling you what they want. I think you tell the customer what they need." So by that token when he says the perfume is a black orchid scent, it will smell black as a raven's back. If he says we are smelling an extra rare orchid, this is the offering we are smelling! But contrary to all the laborate publicity of Black Orchid being based on a unique hybrid demanded by the designer and it being one of all four in the world, there are other black orchid scents in perfumery, in name if nothing more, such as those of Susanne Lang most notably (which is subtly seductive, vanillic and very wearable) or Jovan. Even Opium flirted with the idea of being called Black Orchid at one point, but luckily it didn't succumb. There are several species of black orchids as well. The comic strip of Brenda Starr and Basil St.John comes to mind in their pursue of the rare tropical black orchid in the rainforest.

Tom Ford has been responsible for some good perfumes along the way, and also for some not so good. This is of course human and completely understandable. For every Gucci EDP which is a gloved hand in suede dipped in brown sugar there is the slightly plastic wrapping of white muguets of Envy. We can also witness the dichotomy in the case of the incredibly original and innovative M7 as opposed to Rush which is however quite pleasurable, if a little already done (Feu d'Issey?) and a tad loud. The destructive process of reformulating Rive Gauche? I am not 100% sure it can be laid on his doorstep, so we won't take Tom's head for that....yet....
Nu was his most eminent creation for women in my opinion and to this day I am baffled on why it did not prove to be the huge bestseller it deserved to be. Youth Dew Amber Nude , his first effort for Est�e Lauder, was a really nice take on a modern oriental that can be worn effortlessly by young thangs, instead of their grandmas, as was the established take on the historic Lauder classic. The Azur�e Body Oil that launched this past summer had the irritating aspect of being based on an already established name -although it was a pleasant woody tropical smell- which makes some people anxious whether the original will be sustituted with the new offering, scheduled to appear in summer 2007.
After such a career in scents Tom Ford decided to launch his own. Tom Ford is backed by Est�e Lauder but Black Orchid is launching under his own brand name. The reputation of Ford for brash displays of vulgar misogynistic displays of sexuality never materialised in this one, I am happy to report.

The fragrance features top notes of blackcurrant, french jasmine, black truffle, ylang-ylang, and the tonic trio of bergamot, mandarin and citrus. The heart is based on the rare "Tom Ford black orchid", spicy floral orchid accords and lotus wood. The dry-down includes mysterious notes of Patchouli, incense, vetiver, amber, sandalwood, and vanilla tears.

Tom Ford's Black Orchid, developed by the Givaudan company, is to me a cross of JM Pomegranate Noir 's dark fruit (also backed by Est�e Lauder, hmmm) and CK Euphoria (which is a recent best-selling juice by Carlos Bena�m with Dominique Ropion and Loc Dong). Don't know if that's intentional or not.
The first delicious couple of minutes Black Orchid also has a potent bitter chocolate note in there mingled with patchouli that is perhaps a nod to SL Borneo, but it soon passes. The top notes are trully hypnotic - they are rich and also a little edgy in their darkness, with something you can't quite put your finger on, more like base notes than a traditional top of fleeting disposition; which makes for repeated applications to try to determine what this is. Alas, they do not last. That's too bad, because it is very very interesting and delicious while it does. Some slight decay and repulsion do contribute to something smelling interesting, and the technique of shocking the customer goes against the grain of the latest happy fruity florals that hit the nose with their burst of tonic top notes, only to vanish in boring predictability a couple of minutes later. At least here there is some shock value, some desire to break the mould.
The drydown is not bad either, it's indeed a nuzzling vanilla scent with some coconut of all things (but not sickly, tastefully and subtly done) and wood, quite nice, if not earth-shattering. In fact the drydown is the most conventional part of the scent.
I don't get enough incence despite the official notes and it is not especially reminiscent of Nu, Ford's scent for women while he was artistic director at YSL, at least in Eau de parfum (which is my preferred formula), as the latter is much more spicy and ambery/incensy; despite the fact that they both contain orchid and incense in their core.

Although the name is both cheesy and alluding to the darkness fit for a really calculating woman, the overall effect was not that dangerous, fangled, clawed potion of sin that it is purpoted to be. It is rather tame.
�Black Orchid is a heavy statement in name, packaging and scent, and it goes against the grain of the flaunting sexiness you expect from him,� said Allan Mottus, the editor of The Informationist, a cosmetics trade magazine. �But he may be clever going for that mature, dramatic type woman who has enormous wealth, is not into hip-hop, and has an appetite for Garbo-ish, Grand Hotel type beauty statements".
After nearly a decade of fruity florals, I think the market is hungry for such a beast, even if I am not probably getting a bottle anytime soon. The fact that Black Orchid is not the masterpiece that could be is neither here nor there, however. It is worth sampling for what it may herald.

The eau de parfum costs 90$ for 1.7oz/50ml and 135$ for 3.4oz/100ml, available at Neimans Marcus. Soon to follow a men's version cologne and a complete 125-piece cosmetics line next year. Tom's first store at 845 Madison Avenue will open April of 2007.

Pic of Dita von Teese comes from dita.net, pic of the bottle from NYtimes

Film noir: a perfume to be wary of

Thu, 16 Nov 2006 14:20:00 -0400

What perfume does a film noir heroine wear? More importantly: what perfume does a film noir cinephile wear? If the twists of plot found in a good noir are you cup of tea (or, in this case, coffee), then Film Noir by Ayala Moriel perfumes might be your hot ticket to a ride of pleasure for the evening. And many more evenings to come, if you are lucky and smart. But let's concentrate on your smarts, pal.

Ayala Moriel is dedicated to the art of natural perfumery, a niche that is witnessing a renaissance lately. Perfume Designer Ayala Moriel creates handcrafted perfumes from 100% precious botanical essences. On her site, she describes Film Noir thus: "This perfume is as dark as a Film Noir plot; as dark as a dim-lit alley in Chinatown and musty as the sewer in The Third Man where the ambivalent heroes and heroines find their inevitable death, over and over again. Film Noir is as dark as the soul of the genre's script writers, directors, actors and viewers. In fact, it is so dark that it includes only the darkest base notes: cruelly luscious dark cacao absolute, musty-sweet patchouli and the mysterious bitterness of myrrh. "

Built around the noble essences of dark-roast coffee and the bitterest Valhrona chocolate they combine with patchouli to render a surprising gourmand that catches the darkest images. If you have sampled the wonder that is Serge Luten's Borneo 1834, then you are already familiar with the weird attraction that such scents produce in the limbic system of the person smelling them. Although the depth is somehow bitter and musty, as if glimpsing the jaws of hell, it manages to also recall memories of cosiness and comfort in woolly seperates on a very cold day. Film Noir might have been inspired by such an olfactory memory and created to pay homage to all those inwardly dark heroines (even if they are blondes) that fester the imagination of screenplayers from the dawn of cinema but only culminated in the 40s and early 50s . The breathy voice of Lauren Bacall in "To have and have not" and her gaze as she takes the matches from Bogart. The intricate plot of "The Maltese Flacon" and the wit of "The Third man". And the great "Chinatown", the noir that summarises all the great traits of the classics without copying any of them. And then the recent greats, even if they break some cardinal rules to accomplish it: "LA Confidential" and "Sin City".
Venomous and razor sharp, the heroines emit a female mystique that leaves you shivering from the iciness and hot and bothered by the promise of fiery sex. But you'd have to sleep with a revolver under your pillow, you never know...

The dark ambery liquid reveals its assets early on, as a drop on the skin is more than enough. It then unfolds the notes with the gusto of a cutthroat assasin draped in a killer tweed suit. They did it oh so glamourously back then! Patchouli lingers in the base making it very lasting. The veil of Faye Dunaway is not raised, not will it be raised ever, the dark glasses remain firmly in place, hiding her gaze. Is it happy, is it sad? is she shedding a tear? We will never know. The mysterious aroma will linger in your memory for ever, like the infamous lines in Roman Polanski's film Chinatown when the secret is revealed between heavy slaps: "She's my daughter. She's my sister".
Film Noir is our dark sister. And the daughter we should be quite worried to have.

You can read about natural perfumery and her creations and get Film Noir by visiting Ayala Moriel perfumes clicking here

Top pic is from Black Dahlia, the movie based on James Ellroy book. Pic of Faye Dunaway by Helmut Newton courtesy of temple.edu